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1972 Fuji Finest - SOLD

Bike tags: Road bike | 1972 | bike boom | cromoly | Fuji | more tags >>
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Fuji '331' DB cromoly / 23" / 1972

39cm Nitto Olympiade 105 / 100mm Nitto Dynamic

Fuji / Tange

700c / 36h Suntour LePree / Ukai / 28c Panaracer Ruffy Tuffy folding bead

700c / 36h Suntour LePree / Ukai / 28c Panaracer Ruffy Tuffy folding bead

171mm Sugino Mighty / Sugino Mighty

Fujita leater / 26.4 SR Laprade

Mikashima Unique Road

Suntour Mighty / Suntour Compe-V; Suntour V

Dia-Compe centerpulls

13-28 Suntour Winner Ultra Spaced / 52-44 Sugino Mighty Competition

Was my tourer, now back to (mostly) original spec. I've set my heart on selling it; I have neither the time to ride it or the space to keep it. It was fun while it lasted and I'm glad I took the opportunity to experience this ride. Sold it in May 2011, and replaced it with a newer Team Fuji more apt to commuting and general beater-uppiness.

People who friended this bike Michael Perz, chrisrhayes, eaglerock, latron, kumotaki, phillyc71, horsus prudentus, Splined, Rood, Aaron C, acrescenti, iliketoes, bdawe, GGB, per.k, Velogarden, vqstaphbeard

Nice to see one in this

Nice to see one in this great of a shape!

Patrick's Salt Water Taffy?

Patrick's Salt Water Taffy?

ha, good call

yep :)

a stop on the way from Eugene to SF.

Great Fuji

Love your Fuji's sense of purpose and grace, a nice mix. Bike exudes a certain elan that is present. Nice lead shot, as well. I had an early 80s mid tier Fuji that served me well, currently residing with my nephew as his first road bike. It's been through the Fixed Gear movement and back again, still going strong. Love your option.

Fork yea!

I'm really liking that fork on the Fuji! not to mention all the other shiny bits. Do you ever ride it with a front-only load? How does it handle?



classy! looks great!

classy! looks great!

Sweet find

Very nice example of an older frame. You might find a ultra 6 freewheel and set this up for half-step gearing. 50/44 with the proper freewheel setup. The derailleurs would work well with that and give you the gearing that a touring bike needs.


I have a set of Sugino AT's that I could put on with 50-44-28 gearing, but I was worried about the range of the short-cage derailer. I suppose as long as I don't crosschain I would be okay. What do you recommend in terms of the freewheel? I was planning on using the 13-28 six speed Ultra freewheel I have now.

Touring Crank

The Sugino would be GREAT for a touring crankset, it's the same gearing as my Bridgestone and the 50/44 makes for a great start to 1/2 step gearing. I'll have to say though that that Comp V front derailleur won't do the trick. On both my touring bikes (T700 and Expedition) I'm using Deore XT (stag head) which I've found to be very good, I'd rather be using XC Pro, but hey... You need a triple front as not only the differential between the 28 and the 50, but the triple width throw of the derailleur also. Let me see what I can find around here.
The Ultra 6 will be great also, but if you want to set it up for true 1/2 step, you'll need to change a few cogs. Mine are 13/34 which has been good for anything including full loaded touring (4 panniers etc) in the mountains of China, Spain and Brazil. You don't need to get that crazy, but you're looking for souples (flexibility) in a touring bike so set it up right the first time. I'll get you the gearing for the freewheel.


I'm having some trouble finding a solid Suntour long-cage RD... Hopefully I can find something in the next few weeks or I might have to settle on something with less cache...


Build the freewheel with the following cogs: 13,14,17,21,26,32 or 34. This gives you a hi/lo in each cog resulting in a true 18 gear bike. Your shifting would be 1 lo/hi, 2 lo/hi, 3 lo/hi, 4 lo/hi, 5 lo, 6 lo, 5 hi, 6 hi. Your triple low would give you six more distinct gears also.


You're the best, dunno what I'd do without touring gurus like you around here :)

How about a DA SP-7410?

> The original seatpost, as typical of earlier bikes has only enough length to give about a fistful of
> post... I want to find another semi-period Japanese post, but they are all comparably short!

The Dura-Ace post isn't exactly period correct, but it's all alloy, comes with a great clamping mechanism, and is relatively long -- 200mm between the minimum-insertion mark and the seat rail. I have one on my Super Sport and love it. Period-ish, let's call it. Possible caveat: I've seen some complaints online about the head separating from the shaft, but mine's still solid after five years of use.




good tip, I will keep on the lookout for that. I'm watching an SR Laprade on the 'bay right now; it's still only 165mm but should be long enough to give me the extension I need (about 11cm exposed). I've gathered that the post needs to extend at least 1cm below the seat tube lug to remove dangerous stress on the joint. It'll be tight, but I think it will safely work. Your thoughts?


To do that, how much do you have to you crank the minimum-insertion mark above the top of the seat-tube lug? Pre-DA seatpost, I would pull it up an additional 1cm but no more. No scientific basis for this other than being willing to push the limits (literally) a bit. Basically, I'd say to get a seatpost that's long enough to work. The frame is too important to take risks with.


I was having my doubts about it too, and I luckily found a NOS SR Laprade that's ~190mm from benscycle on eBay. The wait was worth it!

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