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Sleipnir: 1971 Raleigh International touring

Bike tags: 1971 | 50.4 | 531 | barcon | Berthet | more tags >>
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1971 Raleigh International (Carlton-built, Reynolds 531 DB)

46cm Nitto B-177 Noodle/Nitto Technomic

Raleigh-Carlton Reynolds 531/Campagnolo Nuovo Record

Velo Orange Switchable Dynamo/Wolber (Super Champion) Modele 58/Continental Top Touring 2000 700x32

Phil Wood (late '70s alloy)/Mavic MA2/Continental Top Touring 2000 700x32

5-pin 50.4 BCD Nervar Sport/Phil Wood #3 (Campy-to-ISO taper, 119mm)

Selle An-Atomica Titanico/Sugino SP-KD

Crank Brothers Quattro/SRAM PC-890 (nickel-plated for extra shinyness and rust resistance)

Suntour Accu-Shift 6-speed+friction barcons/Campagnolo Nuovo Record (f), Sachs-Huret Duopar Eco (r)

Mafac Racer (calipers & levers); Carlton hoods

Suntour 13-26/TA 34-46-50/Bruce Gordon lowrider front rack, Bruce Gordon rear rack/Reelight induction lights/ Honjo fenders

Hulk have no need for puny springs

The list of Parts To Be Swapped/Upgraded/Majorly Futzed With:

  • replace 44cm Nitto Noodle with 46cm Noodle
  • replace cup-and-cone BB with Phil Wood triple
  • smaller granny ring (30? 28? 26?)
  • replace aluminum rear rack with steel (Tubus, Bruce Gordon, Nitto, Surly? There's a new Taiwanese import at Velo Orange called Dajia that's sort of Tubus-ish in silver)
  • resolve the platform vs. cleated pedal issue (Berthet-Lyotard/Campy vs. Crank Brothers Quattro)
  • install handlebar bag support rack (TA, Mafac preferred; Pletscher or Velo-Orange acceptable); possibly a decaleur as well
  • install quick release/cable adjuster for rear brake cable
  • battery-free lighting: more magnets for front/rear induction lights, front wheel with generator hub, generator-driven front/rear lights
  • better mounting system for front lowrider rack - Tubus LM-1 fork clamps?
  • real fenders (Honjo or Lefol Le Paon preferred, but steel Berthouds are cheaper)
  • at some point I'm going to have to paint this or powdercoat or something
  • and of course, wrap the bars - either with the Tressorex cotton tape I already have or Velo Orange elkhide wrap

August 10, 2010: I have finally won a '70s vintage Phil Wood triple bottom bracket on eBay. Fortunately, in anticipation, I already bought the fancy-schmancy cup wrench. The work waits! I'm alive at last! And I'm full of joy!

2010.10.24: Dammit, a browser crash took away a bunch of stuff I'd written. Let's see how much I can remember:

I am angry and frustrated to report that I am unable to locate my fancy-schmancy Phil Wood BB cup wrench. I'll keep looking, but I may have to break down and get the less fancy one that you use with a Crescent wrench. This will probably be more practical for touring, anyway; it gives you an adjustment tool you can use in a shop without all the extras.

The search for components goes on:

  1. TA mini-front rack/handlebar rack
  2. Handlebar bag, preferably decaleur-mounted
  3. Dynamo front wheel - either SON/Schmidt (if I win the lottery) or VO's threatened "revolutionary" hub, about which they've been coy for months
  4. Bruce Gordon rear rack, or Tubus Logo
  5. Take my Phil rear wheels down to San Jose to have them swap out the 6-speed end caps for 7-speeds, so I can use one of the many 7-speed steel Sachs-Maillard low-gear freewheels I've been accumulating
  6. And of course, the 46cm Nitto Noodles.

The winter rains just started the other day, so I'm really antsy to get the Phil installed, check the chain for stretch, switch out the 34T granny for a 32T I got from Legislator (not small enough, but every little bit helps), and give it a full winter prep overhaul/lubing. I'd really like to get my hands on the wider Noodles, so I can finally tape up the bars; I had a scary slippy-slide thing the other day. Bare bars + rain + ungloved hands = potentially dangerous accidents.

I've switched over to cleated pedals for the time being, as they're really more energy-conserving than the flats. I found a pair of used Sidi police half-boots that seem pretty good for walking, clip in easily, and are warm with wool socks. Although the hard-rubber sole is flexier than I'd like, they may become the default touring shoes. Depending on the discontinued Quattros is risky, but they use the same cleats as CB's mountain pedals - the plastic adapters are only used with road shoes. Still, I should probably hoard bearing rebuild kits, and maybe get another set or two of pedals to be safe.

For the last six months, I have been idly fantasizing about qualifying for Paris-Brest-Paris 2011, and flying this bike over to France for the rally. I just checked the routes I mapped out on MapMyRide, and discovered that the highest point on the route is 1200 feet. Hell, I cleared that on Mount Diablo three weeks ago. I think I can do it, as long as I have the stamina to get in 750 miles in 90 hours.

Pictures of the current build as soon as it's dry enough to take them.

2011.07.18: Major renovations are underway. New photos and a (re)build thread to be posted in the next few days.

August 2011: Rebuild thread here - https://velospace.org/forums/discussion/3918/build-thread---raleigh-international-tourer/.

September 2011: Some major changes are more or less in place:

  • 44cm Noodles swapped out for 46cm Noodles - I may need a shorter stem now
  • Suntour accu-Shift barcons installed; 6-speed indexing more or less works with a 6-speed Suntour freewheel and the French longpull derailleur (quelle horreur!)
  • With great drama, the loose-ball BB has been replaced with a Phil Wood. The Japanese 5-pin crank has been replaced with a Nervar Sport
  • Bruce Gordon rear rack installed
  • Honjo front fender installed; rear fender will need more futzing
  • Front generator wheel was built and installed in May 2011 with Velo Orange clutch-equipped hub, temporary Wolber Modele 58 rim, crappy old DB spokes. A rebuild with Mavic T520 touring rim and Sapim DB spokes/nipples is in the planning stage
  • Kool-Stop brake shoes have been replaced with salmon Scott/Mathauser pads, which are creating the classic "Mafac squeal". I expect to have to twist the brake caliper arms to toe the shoes in.
People who friended this bike Aaron C, latron, sumasbignose, Main Mill Valley, Splined, horsus prudentus, Mtbfixed, Foxtrot, per.k, campystamp, Spacecat, williamblakeetc, axe_somebody, LECHERO 531, GGB, sibkis, brojjedan01, vqstaphbeard

Nice looking bike

ATB Nice bike.I also run Nimbus Sport tires,at 35mm,on my 1985 Schwinn.Are your 38mm tires a tight fit?

I'm afraid they are

Really, they're the absolutely widest tires I can run in the rear triangle, although I think I could go to a 40 in front. I had a LizardSkins neoprene slapguard wrapped around my driveside chainstay, and I had to take it off because the tire rubbed against it unless the wheel was both perfectly trued AND perfectly mounted. The bike gets banged around enough that it's rare that all those conditions apply.

I'm thinking of going back to 32mm tires (Conti Top Touring 2000 or something in the Schwalbe Marathon family). I'm prepping the bike for the brevet series to qualify for Paris-Brest-Paris. The 2007 PBP was super-rainy, so I was thinking full fenders would be a wise precaution. My thought was to go over to France a month or so before the randonee and do a fully-loaded recon ride (ten days or so, instead of the 90 hour competition time) to assess road conditions and set up support. As a fully loaded tour, it makes sense to do that on wider tires - 32mm at least. Then, when the randonee starts, strip down from panniers/racks to a handlebar+saddlebag and 28mm tires for reduced weight, higher pressure and (ideally) better road feel - something like a Challenge Paris-Roubaix, a Grand Bois Cerf or a Panaracer/Rivendell Ruffy Tuffy. The fender problem is, the break point in fender width seems to be between 35mm and 38mm tires - if you want fenders wide enough for a 38mm tire, you have to get huge heavy fenders. I'm thinking that going with narrower, lighter fenders (like these, oooo) and narrower, lighter tires might be more practical.

wow

ATB Dude,you are one serious cycling enthusiast.I would love to do such things.Good luck and have a great time.

those cables are crazy

those cables are crazy

That's the pre-functional look

Just getting stuff roughly laid out, preparatory to actually finishing the build. I tend to ride with loops of extra cable attached to the fork blades/seatstays/chainstays with electrician's tape for at least a month after I've built a bike up, while I'm still tweaking brake and derailleur settings.

On this bike, I had to use a tandem derailleur cable to get through the barcon housing out to the rear derailleur. Cost a pretty penny; about twice the price of a regular cable. I had a taped loop for about 400 miles, until I was confident about cutting it shorter. I'd hate to have to buy another cable just because I cut a new cable too short.

Yeah, cool, cool.

Yeah, cool, cool.

gorgeous gorgeous gorgeous

A perfect Eaglerock bike. Love the color, to say nothing of the Duopar, TA crank, Berthet pedals, and Phil hubs.

really nice eaglerock,

color me jealous!

Posted By: Joshua A. C. Newman: "I think it had some sort of duck rabies or something. That duck wasn't right."

That photo's three weeks old

...so it doesn't depict its current (running) condition. I've put about 300 miles on it since I built it up about two weeks ago, and I've been making incremental changes (mostly tightening the BB again and again and again). I'd just been promising a build thread for it, and I figured I'd get a placeholder up for reference purposes.

The saddle rules, though.



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