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  1.  
    hey guys i have a quill adapter on my bike so i can put a thread less stem on it. the top bolt got striped and no allen key can grab it. whats the best thing to do and the quill adapter isn't tighten on all the way so if drop my bike the handle bars will move.
    its tight enough that it wont slip or anything but what is the best thing to do. is there a way to get this piece off cause i dont see anyway
    • CommentAuthorLoneWolf15
    • CommentTimeJun 30th 2009
     
    How badly is the top bolt stripped? Maybe you could superglue an allen wrench into the bolt. Another option might be to use an easy-out drill bit.
  2.  
    it rusted and then i tried to loosen it
    then it striped alot
    my face was like D:
    ill try the super glue thing thanks :]
    • CommentAuthoreaglerock
    • CommentTimeJun 30th 2009
     
    You might also try a Torx wrench of the appropriate size. They get into the corners of a hex/Allen socket, without gripping the sides of the hexagon.
  3.  
    alright thanksalot ill try it haha there are no more hexagons cus stupid me i kept going at it and it is completely round :'[
    • CommentAuthoreaglerock
    • CommentTimeJul 1st 2009 edited
     
    Posted By: bensonisajewalright thanksalot ill try it haha there are no more hexagons cus stupid me i kept going at it and it is completely round :'[

    In that case, you might want to sacrifice a Torx wrench one step up from the correct size, and...well, kind of hammer it into the rounded Allen hex, so it digs into the metal that's left; that should allow you to get enough torque on what remains of the stem bolt to loosen the stem in the headset. You'll probably trash the Torx by doing so, but you can't make an omelet without busting eggs.

    For future reference: The de-rusting process for such things involves Liquid Wrench - lots of it. I got a 20-year rusted/seized stem out of the headstock of this Bianchi by squirting Liquid Wrench into every opening (several times) and letting it sit for about three days. After that, it still took a little force - but it did come out, without damaging the stem, the headset or the headtube, all of which are still in commission.
  4.  
    superglue and hammers? you guys are going crazy. Try the easy-out, and if the metal is still too messed up for that, just keep drilling the hole bigger until the bolt comes apart.

    If your're not trying to save the quill adapter, and you have room to get at it above or below the stem, just hacksaw straight through it sideways.

    Is the top cap of the adaptor pressing against the stem, or against the top of the adaptor? If it's pressing against the top of the stem you could also get it loose by loosening up the stem.
  5.  
    well the top cap is on the adapter and the stem and the top capas a little space in between
    and i cant take my stem off to saw it off
    • CommentAuthoreaglerock
    • CommentTimeJul 1st 2009 edited
     
    Posted By: bensonisajewwell the top cap is on the adapter and the stem and the top capas a little space in between
    and i cant take my stem off to saw it off

    Tell you what: Why don't you post some pictures, so that we can see what we're talking about? Until we're all clear about what's going on, our suggestions are just like a blind guy throwing knives around - maybe we hit the target, and maybe we hit a bystander; but whatever we hit, it's by accident.

    Pretend we can't see your bike, or your seized stem/adapter situation...because we can't.
  6.  
    alright ill post pictures soon
    the adapter isnt seized its just the top bolt is striped and i am bummed about that since i cannot loosen or tighten that top bolt
  7.  
    oh i may add if i show you a picture your not gonna see anything wrong with it since all i have is a webcam and quality isnt that great
    again its just the top bolt is horribly striped
  8.  
    Just get a side view of the whole situation. We don't really need to see the head of the bolt in detail
  9.  
  10.  
    • CommentAuthorthe rabbi
    • CommentTimeJul 1st 2009
     
    • CommentAuthoreaglerock
    • CommentTimeJul 1st 2009
     
    Okay, now let's get a view from the top, so we can see the stripped (actually, rounded-out) stem bolt. More detail=more better.

    And the trick to loading the photo is to use just the img src tag, and to click the "Format comments as Html" radio button below the comments field.
  11.  
    • CommentAuthoreaglerock
    • CommentTimeJul 1st 2009
     
    Wow, you really did round that sucker out, didn't you?

    This may be a point where you want to get an LBS involved. A better-equipped shop (look for repair guys old enough to be your dad) is likely to have a variety of easy-outs. An easy-out is a tool that threads in the opposite way from the thread direction of the bolt/screw you're trying to get out; the theory is, by tightening the easy-out, you loosen the stem bolt and extract it.

    Normally, you have to drill a pilot hole into the offending screw/bolt in order to thread the easy-out into it, and that's always dicey. I broke off a V-brake bolt in a fork boss once, and drilled the pilot hole slightly off-center - then the easy-out was close enough to the edge of the bolt that I couldn't get enough purchase on the bolt to get the stub out, and I had to dump the fork :-( But this bolt is a lot bigger, so there's more metal to grab; and the damaged hex fitting may be deep enough that you can just thread the appropriate size easy-out into it without more drilling.

    Again, I'd suggest hauling it down to your most trustworthy LBS. Odds are, they've seen this before, and they've got first-hand experience at resolving the problem.
  12.  
    thanks alot for all your help i appreciate it and besides i am getting a whole new bike very soon too cus that whole bike is just messed up and it was mainly a beater bike anyhow
    thanks alot for your time :]
 
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