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    I have the truvativ crank on my masi with a gear ratio of 48t-15t. i've only had it a couple of months and the chainring is already bending. I went a head and ordered a FSA 8th inch chainring to beef it up a bit, but has anyone had this happen to them? I know its the stock chainring and you can have the chainring trued, but i thought it would hold up longer than that.
    • CommentAuthorOtto Rax
    • CommentTimeApr 30th 2009
    they are crappy. i bent two crank arms with them, so i'd replace them when possible. they come stock on schwinn madison, bianchi pistas, masis, and i think a few others. the shitty part is they use a proprietary "powerlink" bb, so when you replace the cranks, you have to replace the bb. i would've saved the chainring money and gotten new cranks and BB.
    I hear the sugino 75 is pretty stong, but i'm not really tricking on this frame. what would be a good pick?
    • CommentAuthorthe rabbi
    • CommentTimeApr 30th 2009
    75s are racing cranks...
    • CommentAuthorwes m.
    • CommentTimeApr 30th 2009
    The touros seem to have some quality control problems. A few years ago the crank bolts were snapping and the cranks arm were falling off. Some people have bent the arms and rings. Some people have ridden them hard for a long time with no problems at all. If you are looking for something to replace them with you can go with the iro cranks and bottom bracket. They are cheap and have a better rep than the touros. If you are looking to spend a little more cash there are all sorts of directions you can go.
    I rode them on my commuter Kilo TT for two years, and only bent them in a fat wreck. The bb goes to hell in 500 miles, plus sealed = win. I'd reccomend Sugino 75s for their ultimate crank status, or Sugino RDs for price to performance ratio. The RDs flex a little, but they are stiffer and much lighter than Touros.
    Sure is a lot of shitty cranks out there pinpointing the budget fixie market... I think vintage is the best bang for the buck. Sugino had some very nice 144bdc cranks that came on many mid level 12speeds in the mid 80's called DLP's, they were an off shoot of Suginos track specific alp's that were the predesessor to the 75's. Very close to the same design. The bones are identical, the spider is just a hair diffrent. Many mid 80's fuji's came with DLP's, and are quite common. I have found several at thrift stores. Just note- they are ISO taper.
    • CommentAuthorOOHWEE.
    • CommentTimeMay 4th 2009
    hardsole are you talking about the glp's?
    • CommentAuthorOOHWEE.
    • CommentTimeMay 4th 2009
    oh yeah how are the sugino xd's?
    Perhaps the track specific ones are glp, I polished the stamps off mine.
    • CommentAuthorthe rabbi
    • CommentTimeMay 5th 2009
    Posted By: hardsole5280Perhaps the track specific ones are glp, I polished the stamps off mine.
    i have glp's on my centurion lemans.
    • CommentAuthorellwood
    • CommentTimeMay 5th 2009
    What about Kazane cranksets? Are they on the same level as the Touros or would they be considered an upgrade?
    I was also looking at external bearings cranks. Truvativ has one i was looking at. Any opinions on external bearings? I heard they're stiff as hell.
    Yep. Stiff, cool, bomb. Some Omniums came through our shop. Sweet stuff.
    Posted By: RideEverydayYep. Stiff, cool, bomb. Some Omniums came through our shop. Sweet stuff.

    Yeah thats the one I was looking at, the Omniums. What other ones would you suggest for a stiff crank?
    • CommentAuthorjam guy
    • CommentTimeMay 10th 2009
    sounds odd that this happened. Have you been checking your chanline. It sounds like something was not straight.
    i consistently check my chainline for tension and the alignment of my back tire. I changed the chainring to a sugino 46t and i can still see the movement in the chain, but that can also be the back alignment.
    • CommentAuthorjam guy
    • CommentTimeMay 11th 2009
    Over tension of the chain can also cause problems. When your tensioning your back wheel how are you doing it?
    I make sure the rear wheel is straight and the chain has enough slack. (I sit on the ground and use my foot to push the frame away then tighten to hold the place of the rear wheel. then I finish tightening).

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