How-To/Mechanics: chain line wayyy off with eno freewheel?

Address the hub spacing, that's where your problem lies.

I'd do it right by respacing the hub. The spacing now means the chainline is different on each side. Now that both track cog and freewheel are on, a little math will tell you what the chainline needs to be. I.e. track cog has chainline of x and freewheel has chainline of y, you need to respace to make them both z. A redish/truing may now be in order. Then you may need to shift the BB, but with Phil this shouldn't be a problem.

Now, ultimately, you should be able to run both sides of the hub with a nice chainline:)

Posted By: SkidMarkI've had to do this with a few fixed/free setups. The problem is that a cog and a freewheel do not have the same offset. It can be handled by re-spacing the axle and re-dishing the wheel.

Re-dishing the wheel might not even be necessary. We don't know the history of the wheel, but most flop-flops have no dish. For all we know, the wheel might have been originally spaced 125mm, or even 130mm, and someone removed a couple of spacers to make it fit in the 120mm Soma Rush frame.

A small assortment of 10mm spacers and a reasoned mind might be all that is needed for a quick fix. That, and some wrenches.

Hmm...so you can't get your crank far enough out to line up with the freewheel? *(you wrote +3 to move it out I guess)

This got me thinking about my bike, which has WI fixed/free rear hub, and a WI freehweel.
From White Industires:

"The chainline on the fixed side of our ENO hubs is 43.0mm
The chainline on the freewheel side of our ENO hubs is 47.5mm"

So, if that holds with a Phil fixed/free hub, that would account for 110.5 to 115 axle length options.
But if you did go for another BB (don't advise that unless it's a permanent switch, and you spent coin on the first Phil bb)
get a Campy one if possible if chainring spacers and longer bolts won't do the trick.

Posted By: SkidMarkSo if you subtract a washer from the freewheel side and put it on the fixed side the chainline will be nearly symmetrical.

That, or carry a second bottom bracket, bottom bracket tool and wrenches to make a field flip, rather than one single wrench. Oh, and don't forget to haul along the crank puller, too.

Done. Installed a 120mm Phil bb, centered in the frame, and the chain line is ON. Sucks that there is so much chain line difference between the fixed side and the freewheel side when the rear wheel is flipped.

What are you talking about? Hub spacing? Cold setting the frame? It's a brand new Soma frame, why would I want to bend it? I needed a wider bottom bracket, which I've already installed, and my chainline is back to perfect. I originally asked this question to hopefully avoid having to try several bottom brackets until I got the spacing correct. I knew I would need a wider bb, I just didn't know which one. Either a 115mm or a 120mm. Also, I've never used a White freewheel wither. It alters chainline a tiny bit more than a Shimano freewheel does, I believe.

Phil bottom brackets are side-to-side adjustable and until I installed the 120mm wide bottom bracket, the side-to-side adjust required to get the chainline straight with any of the others was more than I wanted. As in, the bottom bracket was too much to one side. Now with the 120mm bb, it is centered in the bb shell with no asymmetrical side-to-side adjustment required, and the chainline is perfect.