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  1.  
    Hello,

    I am facing a life-changing dilemma here.

    I currently own an extra pair of TT brake levers (tektro plug-in style).
    I have a cheapo origin8 bullhorn bar. I run the brake line under the grip tape.
    However, I'm going to buy a Nitto RB-021 and plan to use track grips instead of grip tape.
    Do you think drilling the bars is a bad idea? I'm kind of against it myself, but I want to hear what you say.

    If I decide against drilling, I will have to buy some sort of cyclocross or BMX lever. Do you know of any lever which will fit the RB-021 (a 26mm bar)? I'm looking at many of the minimal brake levers (such as the Dirty Harry, Goldfinger, E-Lever, or ACOR) and they are all either for 22mm or 25.4mm bars.
    Do you think that a 25.4mm brake lever will fit a 26mm bar well? Thanks.
  2.  
    Drill? Just buy a bullhorn bar with the holes already drilled in them. It'd look alot nicer and less hassle. And not quite too sure about the brake lever clamping on but if you're a heavy drinker like myself you can shim it using a beer can and some scissors. Or if you're underage coca-cola works too. I like coca-cola. Awh who am I kidding teenagers are always drinking. But I digress, I don't think 00.6mm is going to matter that much.
    • CommentAuthorrollins
    • CommentTimeMay 7th 2011
     
    25.4mm is effectively the same as 26mm. It's how its measured, not an actual size difference. I believe the difference is attributed to manufacturers wanting to make consumers fearful about mismatching brand names.
  3.  
    You're missing an important piece of information here. There are generally three diameters to every bar: a stem clamp diameter (in the middle of the bar, where the stem and some interrupter levers are attached), a grip diameter (where shifters, levers, and grips attach), and an inner diameter (where inverse levers and barcons attach).

    A mountain bar will have a stem clamp of 25.4mm or 31.8mm, a grip of 22.2mm, and an inner of around 16.5mm (I say "around" because the ID of a mountain bar is irrelevant to the vast majority of their users).

    A road bar will have a stem clamp of 25.4mm, 26.0mm, or 31.8mm (there are more but those are the most common), a grip of 23.8mm, and an ID of 19.6-20.6mm (again, this is measured/reported on some bars, not on others).

    So, the diameter difference between say a mountain linear pull brake lever and a road aero lever is actually 1.6mm. This makes mounting mountain parts on road bars impossible without physical alteration. I have seen it done, and I have also seen shop monkeys break parts in the attempt. Don't do it if you care about marring your bar or breaking your component.

    A road part can be mounted on a mountain bar, but, as Alex says, it would need a shim. A shim is easy to make, but a single wrap of aluminum can is NOT a functional shim.

    As far as inverse (ie TT) levers and barcons go, they can not be mounted in mountain bars unless they were designed to do so (I believe Dia-Compe makes an inverse lever which will fit most mountain bars). Some bars are made for both mountain grip size and road ID, but very few (Velo Orange is the only brand I can think of which offers this).

    Lastly, an interrupter (ie CX) lever can be made with a 23.8mm clamp, a 26.0mm clamp, or a 31.8mm clamp, depending on where it was designed to attach. I suppose someone may make a 22.2 version, but I can't imagine why.

    Your best bet for an aerodynamic positioned lever is to either install your existing inverse levers on the RB-021 and run the cable under the tape or grip (it is possible), or buy an aero or interrupter lever and install that. An aero lever will look stupid, and the interrupter would need to be 23.8mm or shimmed to 23.8mm. No matter what you do, you will need to run the cable under the tape. DO NOT drill the bar.
    If you want a lever up at the stem clamp (or near it), you can get an E-Lever or an interrupter lever designed for road bars (23.8mm for the E-Lever or 26.0mm for most interrupters) and just run the cable as you would normally.
  4.  
    Posted By: rollins25.4mm is effectively the same as 26mm. It's how its measured, not an actual size difference.

    What? That makes no sense, but assuming I know what you're trying to say, the reason that they are different is irrelevant. That they are different is important, and there definitely is an actual size difference.

    Installing and torquing a 25.4mm bar into a 26.0mm stem will result in the stem clamp bending or breaking, or the bar unintentionally slipping with heavy use. A cheap stem clamp will bend and be nigh on unusable with a 26.0mm bar, and a broken clamp will just be unusable. A 26.0mm bar in a 25.4mm clamp is the same kind of stupid. Get the right stem for the right bar and the right components for that bar.

    If you just want to put a 26.0 interrupter lever on a 25.4mm diameter section of a bar, it might be fine. But definitely do not treat a 26.0 stem like it should marry to a 25.4 bar. Dangerous.
  5.  
    Multiple wraps of aluminum cans! Eh... worked for me
  6.  
    I'm just saying that it needs to be done with some understanding of the thickness needed. They can work fine if they're done right.
  7.  
    Wow, thanks a lot for your help.
    Just for clarification, would the Dia-Compe Goldfinger lever (sized to 25.4) fit a Nitto RB-021 (with an "Aero Bar/Cross Lever Diameter" of 26.0/24.0)?
    What does that mean when it says 26.0/24.0?

    I don't want to go out buying it to find out things don't fit, so I'm just checking.

    Posted By: Alexander703Drill? Just buy a bullhorn bar with the holes already drilled in them. It'd look alot nicer and less hassle. And not quite too sure about the brake lever clamping on but if you're a heavy drinker like myself you can shim it using a beer can and some scissors. Or if you're underage coca-cola works too. I like coca-cola. Awh who am I kidding teenagers are always drinking. But I digress, I don't think 00.6mm is going to matter that much.

    I'm 16 years old. I think Coca-Cola might be a little easier to obtain.
  8.  
    Posted By: squiresuzukiJust for clarification, would the Dia-Compe Goldfinger lever (sized to 25.4) fit a Nitto RB-021 (with an "Aero Bar/Cross Lever Diameter" of 26.0/24.0)?

    It will fit on the 23.8mm (Universal calls this 24mm) grip area with a shim (but be in an awkward place, probably). It will not fit on the stem clamp sleeve (26mm). It could but I wouldn't buy one until someone showed me that it was physically possible (it probably isn't).

    Posted By: squiresuzukiWhat does that mean when it says 26.0/24.0?

    Universal is referring to the diameters of the two places on the bar which would accept aero bars (pictured below). They are the stem clamp sleeve and the grip area, respectively.

    • CommentAuthorstalag13
    • CommentTimeMay 8th 2011 edited
     
    I run a Goldfinger on some RB-021's. No shim needed. Works just fine, just make sure you get the right size.
    • CommentAuthoriliketoes
    • CommentTimeMay 8th 2011
     
    Posted By: squiresuzukiWow, thanks a lot for your help.

    I'm 16 years old. I think Coca-Cola might be a little easier to obtain.


    I was under the impression that every fixed gear bike came with PBR tallboys. Joking aside, have fun. Taping cable under bars isn't too difficult anyway. Use a bit of tape at the bend and it goes way easier.
  9.  
    Posted By: stalag13I run a Goldfinger on some RB-021's. No shim needed. Works just fine, just make sure you get the right size.


    I see on the dia-compe website that their only size is 31.8mm which would be great. I can't seem to find one in that size on the internet, they're all 25.4mm. Which did you get?
  10.  
    SQUIRE!

    dude, have you heard of the deda crono nero ? idk what kind of steer tube setup you have (threadless/threaded) or the diameter, but if you are running threadless, you should come up on these.

    they're the shit, and have internal routing.


    http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=188_232_593_1737&products_id=9639
  11.  
    Posted By: eastcoastcrusherSQUIRE!
    dude, have you heard of the deda crono nero ? idk what kind of steer tube setup you have (threadless/threaded) or the diameter, but if you are running threadless, you should come up on these.
    >


    Those are pretty sweet. I have a threaded tube (+quill stem), but why should that matter?
    • CommentAuthormaanster
    • CommentTimeMay 8th 2011
     
    Using an E-Lever on my rb-021's, works perfectly fine.. Looks good too! ;)

    https://velospace.org/node/36289
    • CommentAuthoruhler
    • CommentTimeMay 8th 2011
     
    Posted By: squiresuzuki
    Posted By: eastcoastcrusherSQUIRE!
    dude, have you heard of the deda crono nero ? idk what kind of steer tube setup you have (threadless/threaded) or the diameter, but if you are running threadless, you should come up on these.
    >


    Those are pretty sweet. I have a threaded tube (+quill stem), but why should that matter?


    most/all threaded stems won't work on a 31.8 bar clamp, unless you want one of the weird adjustable stems.
    • CommentAuthorroot
    • CommentTimeJun 13th 2011
     
    thread jack! i was going to start a new topic but figured i'd post here first...

    i got an RB-021 handlebar on my ride but upon receiving it i realized my stock tektro brake lever could only be placed a few inches from the stem (i was planning on running it as close to the stem as possible but as of right now i'm missing on the flat part of the bar because of my lever situation. So i started to do some homework on tt levers and it looks like this is my fix (so i could use all hand positions and basically get the brake out of the way). During my homework i realized that some of these levers route the cables inside the bar where as some give you the option to choose internal/external. My RB-021 doesn't have any holes in it and i don't plan on drilling any into it..so with that said, which of the following 4 levers will work in my situation (order of links should definitely be considered as I have a preference in lever length and colors when choosing).



    So with all that said...I love the way these look and the length is ideal but i read on some forum bout how it only can route inside the bar:
    http://www.amazon.com/Tektro-TL720-Reverse-Brake-Silver/dp/B004GZGT4Q/ref=pd_sbs_sg_5


    These are my next option, like the silver and the price isn't bad either...but i have no idea if it's internal/external/choice:
    http://www.amazon.com/Tektro-4-1-Reverse-Levers-Silver/dp/B003SZUP7C/ref=pd_sbs_sg_10


    These last two are pretty much identical except for name but i do like the look of the tektro a little more as it doesn't have the excess material on the end but i figured maybe the name brands have a difference in quality that i don't know about yet which is why i threw the cane creek in there too:
    http://www.amazon.com/Tektro-Reverse-Brake-Levers-Black/dp/B001CJX4WO/ref=pd_sbs_sg_3
    and
    http://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-Trial-Levers-Black/dp/B000ZTNXCS/ref=pd_sbs_sg_1



    any and all help would be appreciated dudes and dudettes
  12.  
    First one is internal only, all others are external. An external lever can be routed internally if the bar has a slot near the bar end, but internal levers can't be made to route externally.

    I might have some reasonably attractive Dia-Compe reverse levers to sell you, if you're interested. Externally routed, of course.
    • CommentAuthorErik_H
    • CommentTimeJun 14th 2011
     
    Syntace Stratos or Profile Air wings are also good options if you're looking for bullhorns with internal drillings and come in different degrees of drop
  13.  
    He already has the bars, he needs levers.
 
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