velospace is about bikes and the people who ride them marketplace photos random forums














    • CommentAuthormeatroll
    • CommentTimeDec 30th 2010 edited
     
    I haven't seen any good discussion about this so I am going to throw in a few ideas. Fenders are amazing, but up until recently the only types designed to fit on bikes with minimal clearance (SKS raceblades, Planet Bike Speedez) were pretty disappointing. Both of them have absolutely no coverage between the seatstays and the BB area, so the back of your legs get soaked.

    If you already have Raceblades or the Speedez's, your biggest problem is, as I said above, the spray coming to the back of your legs. To combat this you just need to get ahold of an extra front raceblade/speedez, which, judging by the amount of people who ride around with only one fender (WHY?!??!!?!?) should be fairly easy if you live in a decent sized city - just put a WTB posting up on craigslist.

    To attach you can just ziptie your rear and your extra front together. Ignore the missing wheels - this had plenty of room to spare with some 25c tires on my BK. It should work fine on any bike with horizontal dropouts or track ends too. If you have a road bike with vertical dropouts and very little clearance between the rear wheel and the seat tube you might want to double check that you have enough space, but, it really doesn't take much at all.

    OR, if you've got $50, an awesome newer solution would be the Crud Roadracer MK2's. I haven't tried these myself, but they are well reviewed. What they say is that if you can clear a 5mm allen key, you can clear these fenders. They have tons of coverage and are REALLY lightweight, something like 7.5oz including mounting hardware.


    There are also ways to rig up regular full fenders (use P-clamps to attach, cut at the brake bridge and screw rack struts into fenders at cut points to attach to either side of brake bridge, cut front fender just behind fork)
    • CommentAuthorSkidMark
    • CommentTimeDec 30th 2010 edited
     
    Two used fenders totalling $20



    The toe overlap is a bitch though, but otherwise the front fender would be useless.
    • CommentAuthorlatron
    • CommentTimeDec 30th 2010
     
    Honjos. They make some super skinny ones that are a bit pricey, but they're long-lasting and because they're metal, they can be shaped if necessary -- say, indented at the point of contact at the seat tube. They're also true full fenders, with great coverage.
    • CommentAuthorSkidMark
    • CommentTimeDec 30th 2010
     
    I've got about 10mm of clearance at the brake bridge and the fork has 2mm of "clearance" with a 25c tire. The front tire is about 14mm from the downtube also.

    I know I'm the one that says toe-overlap is a non-issue, but it's well over an inch, and I ride less in the winter so my trackstands are all squirrelly. The fender and brackets are much wider than the tire, which makes it even worse. My foot has actually rubbed the fender while turning right at intersections.
  1.  
    I like fenders and have an 85 Panasonic that came with 27” wheels and no clearance for fenders at all.
    I put on 700c wheels with 25c tires and it works well now.
    • CommentAuthoriliketoes
    • CommentTimeDec 31st 2010
     
    I'm all about fenders, so I bought some for my kilo (which, as has been bemoaned by the forums, is notoriously difficult to fit fenders onto). Currently with 25c tires it just just occasional rub with Planet Bike fenders (easily available everywhere fine bicycles are sold). I might just try cutting a notch into my rear PlanetBike fender. It seems that if I were to just remove maybe a 3-4cm x 1cm block from the top might just let the offending brake-stay (?) snug right into the fender itself. Essentially what the OP said:

    Posted By: meatroll
    There are also ways to rig up regular full fenders (use P-clamps to attach, cut at the brake bridge and screw rack struts into fenders at cut points to attach to either side of brake bridge, cut front fender just behind fork)


    With some extra drilling and clever zip-tie placement it could be a really neat solution for me. I'll post images of it when I get around to putting my bike up here.
    • CommentAuthormeatroll
    • CommentTimeJan 1st 2011 edited
     
    Fitting standard full fenders on a Kilo is pretty impressive, definitely post up a pic.
    This is basically what I was talking about with the rack struts:


    Basically, you just screw them into your fenders at the cut point and attach them to your brake mount, without having to run the fender under the brake bridge (if you have no brake there, a nut and bolt would work). I have read that this works best with the SKS full fenders, as they have a thin strip of aluminum running through the middle, whereas with Planet Bike and such it is only chromoplastic, which could potentially crack when you screw through it. Anyway, Velo Orange sells racks struts, as well as the P-clamps I mentioned:
    http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/racks-decaleurs/racks/rack-strut.html
    http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/accessories/racks-decaleurs/racks/p-clamps-for-fender-attachment.html
    • CommentAuthorlatron
    • CommentTimeJan 1st 2011
     
    Looks great -- congrats. One tiny suggestion: If possible, put a strip of heavy duct tape under the fender, serving as the bridge between the front and back portions. It'll block water from shooting straight up through the gap into the underside of your headset. I've used this trick to solve certain fender problems and it's surprisingly long-lived -- five years, in one case.
    • CommentAuthorparkman14
    • CommentTimeJan 1st 2011
     
    Really, really like those new Crud Roadracers. Definately replacing my Raceblades with a pair of those!
    The whole p-clamp/etc. seems like it could just scratch your shit and waste your time. only 30-40 bucks for the road racers, and they look like something batman would use!
    thanks for sharing meatroll!
    • CommentAuthorAFenvy
    • CommentTimeJan 3rd 2011
     
    I have to say, those Crud Roadracer fenders are sexy as hell. I am definitely going to be picking some of those up!
  2.  
    Just fit some SKS P35 Chromoplastics on my Kilo with 23c tires... pretty happy with the result. Will post pics soon.
  3.  
    On my last "fender bike" the clearance was horrendous in the front and the back. For the front I bought a cheapo aluminum "cyclocross" fork off eBay and it fit fenders fine and even had eyelets on the dropouts for them but the toe overlap sucked and basically wrecked them. In the rear, there was no hope of fitting a fender under the brake bridge, but I had a centerpull brake from an old Schwinn and actually ran the fender through the hanger, which worked surprisingly well.

    On my current "fender bike" the clearances are better, I can run 25c's with Berthoud 40c fenders with just one questionable modification:

    I put p-clamps on the seatstays to hold it in place, then effectively raised the brake bridge up with a few metal brackets so that the fender can sit right on the brake bridge.
    • CommentAuthorSkidMark
    • CommentTimeJan 5th 2011 edited
     
    I cut a section of inner tube to go under the P-clamps. If it gets scratched it will match all the other scratches and gouges in the frame from parking it and transporting it.
  4.  

    So, here's a little info on the SKS P35s:
    It was a pretty easy install, though the set I used had been sitting in the attic of my shop and had lost a great deal of its hardware. I had to go down to 23c tires; pretty sure it'd be impossible to run anything larger. The only real modication I had to do (besides trimming the fender struts) was on the front fender's fork crown bolt mount:

    Just a little snipping off the top and it clears the headset. It is a tight fit though, and crap will occasionally get stuck between the tire and fender up there. Of course, toe overlap is always present, but dry pantlegs are nigh-invaluable.

    The rear was a straightforward install, though I lacked the metal brake bridge mount, so it rattles around a little. If you have this piece, you might need to file the brake bolt slot a little so you can push it farther up on the bridge, but that shouldn't be a huge deal.

    Also, it's important to have the rear wheel relatively far back in the dropouts to allow space for the bolt head on the chainstay bridge. Getting the rear wheel out pretty much requires loosening the fender struts' adjustment nuts.

    So in summary, the fenders are far from perfect, I couldn't expect more from a tight-geo track frame. Now, on to mounting a rear rack.
 
\



velospace | about, FAQ & policies | contact | blog | status | site map
© 2005-2011 velospace. All Rights Reserved.