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    • CommentAuthorMancha150
    • CommentTimeJun 11th 2010 edited
     
    Hey everybody! So since I came on to velospace a little under a year ago, my interest in building a bike has grown day by day, and my desire to build up something really nice, so that once and for all I could say my bowery is not the fastest bike in the western hemisphere, has grown tremendously. Anyway, after living two years in Mexico, I am back in my second (or third?) home, Washington DC, and wanted to start up this new stage in my life and career with a new bike, built completely from scratch. You all have been such a huge help since I came to velospace, especially all of you that contribute frequently and were patient when I asked seemingly stupid questions. In any case, I have learned a lot, and want to build my first bike.

    I realize the norm on this website is to start with a frame and work from there, or even have everything ready to build and have the thing done in a few days, but in my case I do not have the frame yet, and will probably need another month to get all the parts because for some reason or another, my signaling in the DC job market with a Master's degree in Economics has not worked at all, even after sending out over 30 applications. So I need to make money with something soon before I can buy more parts. But I think it will be great because it allows people to give me there input, and me to be more cautious about the choice of my parts.

    I will be using this bike as a “weekend training bike,” since I will continue to use the bowery for commuting. I have started and will continue to do long bike rides with my girlfriend along the Potomac and other interesting places over the summer and fall and again next spring, 15-40 miles daily and increasing to the best of our ability. Anyone in the area with suggestions for paved trailes, let me know! We are thinking of doing a bike trip next summer from Milan to Sicily for our honeymoon, and need to get in shape of course. I don’t think the BK can actually handle rear racks for panniers, so I may get another frame with horizontal drop outs that I actually get properly sized for and just transfer the parts, which I will do for her as well because her stock pista is not prepared for Italy, and the bike is too big for her.
    • CommentAuthorMancha150
    • CommentTimeJun 11th 2010
     
    With all that said, today I received my hubs in the mail, and since I waited 3 weeks and they are the third most expensive part on my bike, I will go from there. I was originally going to do a "murdered out" bareknuckle, but really want to use the silver Mavic Open Pros to silver rims, so it will only be black enough to be called mi negrita linda (shout out to Oscar d'Leon and Celia Cruz). The components I have in mind or have purchased are as follows:

    1. EAI Black Bareknuckle 56cm (frame and fork) - I have found a couple of sources...looks like it will cost about 750 shipped (Thanks Ryan for the sizing help!)
    2. SRAM/Truvativ Omnium BLACK Crankset (172.5mm) with Omnium chainring (48T) - Bought for 268 and included the GXP Blackbox ceramic BB
    3. SRAM Red/Blackbox BB with ceramic bearings - included with crankset - If I get a nice job with nice benefits, I may just invest in the Chris King BB compatible with the Omniums (about 200)
    4. EAI Deluxe track cog - 16T or 17T (if I can get a sugino zen or sugino 75 49T black chainring down the road
    5. Izumi Super Toughness or whatever their less expensive model is (ESH?) (I know this is overkill, but I really want a chain that will last a while, that I can happily maintain, and the super toughness looks nice as hell on every bike that has it on velospace.
    6. Mavic Open Pro Silver rims, 32h
    7. Profile Racing Silver Track Hubs 32h (fixed/free) - Bought for 215 shipped (I want to polish because they look a little dull...any suggestions of how and with what product?) Thanks again for the advice Ryan!
    8. Spokes - No idea what to buy here give me some inputs (looking for silver)
    9. Stem #1: Black Deda Newton Road (26.0, 110mm, 10 degree rise/drop) - Bought barely used for 35 shipped - I like how it looks, but didnt realize I have been using a 100mm stem, and not 110mm on my bowery, so it may be too long because the BK is going to be on the large size.
    10. Stem #2: Thomson X2 Black (31.8, 100mm, 17 degree rise/drop) - Seems to be the favored by a lot a people on velospace, and despite the clamp size being opposite the bars I use, I love how it looks
    11. Headset (1 1/8): Either Cane Creek 100 Threadless (Black or silver) or Chris King NoThreadset (Black) - Im leaning towards the Cane Creek because it ended up looking so nice on deermatt's recent build
    12.Seatpost: Thomson Elite Black (27.2) - advice on length? as I said, the frame will run a little big, so I wont be exposing too much seatpost. My current bike has about 150mm showing
    13. Saddle: Either ISM Adamo Racing Saddle (black) or Road (black) - I know they look ugly and are relatively heavy, but I have my reasons. I am still considering the Fizik Aliante, but dont see too much promise in the Arione or Arione because of my pussy-ass sit bones
    14. Handlebars: I have too many options for bullhorns. I want to try out the Soma El Toro's because they are relatively cheap and I want to try something as absurd as the LA84s. I may get the black anodized rb021's from bens cycle (40cm). Both of those for the deda newton. For the X2, im looking at the Cobra wing as T_O49 has, or a significantly cheaper option from profile design (airwing OS), which will have less drop and be more suitable for long rides. Will eventually pick up some road drops as well for Italy practice!

    Will post some pictures of the parts I have soon. Thanks for your input and reading
  1.  
    yay, I've been waiting for this build thread to come up. I hope all goes well!
  2.  
    I have an extra black 27.2 Thomson Masterpiece that I will sell you for cheap, since it's been cut down to about 9". If you want it, let me know.

    Since this is for street purposes, I would suggest bullhorns or similar bar. Risers bars or track drops, don't even think about.

    That Blackbox BB is a near 200 dollar BB, so it SHOULD last you quite awhile. The fact you cannot service them is really lame, but just have to deal with it when the time comes I guess.
    • CommentAuthorMancha150
    • CommentTimeJun 11th 2010
     
    Oh and I almost forgot,
    15. Pedals 1: Shimano PD-R540 SPD-SL - Bought for 60
    16. Pedals 2: Ritchey Logic Comp V4 Mountain Pedal (SPD) or Logic Pro V4 Micro Road (SPD)





    And of course, my humble set of parts all together...
    • CommentAuthorMancha150
    • CommentTimeJun 11th 2010
     
    Posted By: terrible_one49I have an extra black 27.2 Thomson Masterpiece that I will sell you for cheap, since it's been cut down to about 9". If you want it, let me know.


    Yes please! PM me with the length and price. Thanks!
    • CommentAuthorveggie
    • CommentTimeJun 11th 2010
     
    I can't wait to see this built up. I guess i'm against the norm also, I didn't have all my parts when I started building.
    • CommentAuthorthe rabbi
    • CommentTimeJun 11th 2010
     
    Will bullhorns, you might want a shorter stem because of the extra reach provided by the bars.
    • CommentAuthorMancha150
    • CommentTimeJun 11th 2010
     
    Thanks for all your comments guys. Rabbi, I definitely agree with you. Thats why I am probably gonna hold onto the 110mm deda stem from road drops or some shorter bullhorns with little drop. Handlebars are one component that I cannot get enough of, so I hope to buy a few different ones this summer and see what works with what.
  3.  
    Do a online search for aluminum polishing. You don't need to start with a low grit sand paper, as they already have a decent polish on them, but some rubbing compound made for aluminum might bring it out more.
    • CommentAuthorcage
    • CommentTimeJun 11th 2010
     
    Posted By: terrible_one49Do a online search for aluminum polishing. You don't need to start with a low grit sand paper, as they already have a decent polish on them, but some rubbing compound made for aluminum might bring it out more.


    +1
    Always start with the least abrasive method first. I would recomend the aluminum polish they sell at car part stores. When I worked at one for a while I would get bored and polish the bottoms of soda cans... It worked really well.
    • CommentAuthorMancha150
    • CommentTimeJun 11th 2010
     
    Thanks cage and t_o49. I will head over the advance auto parts this weekend to see what they have. I see a bunch of options online as well
  4.  
    good luck with your BK build man !

    Do Make Say Think is great music im glad you've hear them?
    • CommentAuthorLegislator
    • CommentTimeJun 11th 2010
     
    I would email profile and see if those hubs are clear anodized, because they look like brite dip clear anodize to me in your pictures. Polishing anodization is easy-ish on a smooth surface but on those hubs you would be entering a world of pain, since you have to buff off all the coating before you can polish. Profiles webpage says they are polished, but if they are older than 2010 there is a chance they are anodized.

    However, if they are not anodized then use some simichrome on them, it will make them twinkle, and not leave tiny scratches like other polishing compounds.
    • CommentAuthorheadphone
    • CommentTimeJun 11th 2010 edited
     
    profile hubs are anodized. you'd need to de-anodize and polish. and without any surface treatment, they will get dull after awhile...and this will be when they're already laced up. unless you have child-sized hands that can fit in between spokes, re-polishing laced up hubs seems like it would be an incredible pain the ass.

    I'd avoid this.
    • CommentAuthorheadphone
    • CommentTimeJun 12th 2010 edited
     
    ...and my two cents on chains:

    there really is no reason to buy expensive chains when more affordable and quality chains exist. you should be replacing chains periodically anyways; are you always going to want to spend $70 on a chain every 6 months or so when there is little or no extra benefit over a kmc z510hx or a wipperman whitestar that can be purchased easily for $15?

    if you want a quality chain that wont give you any trouble, install it correctly and wipe/lube the chain regularly -- I do this once a week. as far as aesthetics, every chain is going to look ugly once you put some miles on it, so I wouldnt buy a chain based upon looks.
  5.  
    He is right. I ride a Izumi SuperToughness V on all my bikes, and I would only suggest it if you're riding brakeless and need a unbreakable chain. Otherwise, whatever chain you ride on the street is going to get worn by dirt and grim, so it be better to get a good mid-range chain, and replace it when needed. I wish I never ruined a V chain by riding it on the streets, because really… it's near impossible to FULLY clean out the inside links of a chain to make it like-new again.
    • CommentAuthorheadphone
    • CommentTimeJun 12th 2010
     
    well, even the good budget chains are unbreakable, really. 99.9% of the time, chain breakage is due to improper installation. If you can break a chain from pedaling alone, then you should be training for the olympics.
    • CommentAuthorMancha150
    • CommentTimeJun 12th 2010
     
    thanks for your comments guys.



    Posted By: headphoneprofile hubs are anodized. you'd need to de-anodize and polish. and without any surface treatment, they will get dull after awhile...and this will be when they're already laced up. unless you have child-sized hands that can fit in between spokes, re-polishing laced up hubs seems like it would be an incredible pain the ass.

    I'd avoid this.


    Headphone, are you suggesting i dont de-anodize and polish in the first place because i will have to repolish every once in a while which will be impossible once its laced up?
  6.  
    Leave the hubs the way they are they are pretty sweet
 
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