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  1.  
    I did a few searches hoping to find an answer and had no luck, so I'll ask all the velospacers.

    I've desired a steel straight blade fork (like that of a Barenuckle) for my bike and I found something nearly perfect here:
    http://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_STOR20.cgi?Action=Details&ProdID=1749

    If you go to the link you'll notice that this fork has a steerer tube length of 250mm and is threaded on the top 75mm.
    With the quick measurements that I did just now, it appears that the fork uncut would be exactly
    the right length for the headtube and stem plus about an inch or so fitting into my bike.

    There's all the background, now here's the question- is it going to be ok/safe to put my Thomson shim and stem over threaded steerer tube?
    I'm probably over-thinking this but I'd like your input.
    • CommentAuthorpilehead
    • CommentTimeApr 18th 2010
     
    Worked for me, I put a threaded Independent Fabrication fork on my threadless pista, shim, stem and all. No problems.
  2.  
    I would strongly suggest that you do not clamp the stem to the threaded section of the fork. A threaded fork is weak at the threads (guess why...), and I've seen a couple break as the result of having a threadless stem clamped on, the steerer bending most commonly at the beginning on the threads, and eventually snapping the threaded area altogether. If you need to use a threaded fork with a threadless stem, you should use a fork with enough unthreaded steerer to clear your threadless headset, any spacers, and the stem.

    Clamping the stem to any portion of the threads is a risk, but plenty of people do it, and most probably don't suffer a significant bend or a break. But as I said, I've seen it happen, and if it happens, it will be when you are putting a significant amount of weight on your bars, resulting in a catastrophic failure of your entire front end (think about all the parts which depend on the stem and top cap in a threadless setup). It is not pretty.
    • CommentAuthorpeterabbit
    • CommentTimeApr 18th 2010
     
    nevermind the threads wtf are you gonna do with that 27.0mm fork crown
  3.  
    Heh, if only I had bothered to follow the link. OP--You're going to spend more trying to get this setup to work than you want to. It makes a lot more sense to get the right fork, such as the Soma straight blade 1" threadless jobbie. You do know that Pake just began rolling out a straight blade fork as well, yeah? I have no idea if they are available, but I'm sure their website will tell you.
    • CommentAuthorpilehead
    • CommentTimeApr 18th 2010
     
    I feel like you'd have to be putting quite a bit of weight/pressure on your front end to make the steering tube case, even if threaded.
  4.  
    As I said, I've seen it happen. There is a significant difference in strength and relative thickness between a threadless steerer and a threaded steerer, especially when there is something clamped to it, exerting a bending force on the debilitated threaded end. There is a reason that all forks don't come with a portion pre-threaded.

    That doesn't mean that it will happen, but it can, and does. It is potentially dangerous, and therefore shouldn't, in my opinion, be blindly recommended to someone who doesn't have the mechanical experience or understanding necessary to make that kind of choice, not to mention the awareness that a problem could occur in the first place. Also, as PR pointed out, the fork he has selected requires either a JIS crown race (and ISO cups, which isn't especially easy to work out) or needs to be milled to ISO. Either way, not something he can do himself, and not something which will be free. It makes more sense, especially since he is (seemingly) inexperienced, to use the right part for the job.
  5.  
    If that comes across as harsh, I apologize. I just got done having an argument with my wife and wasn't totally clear of the mindset.
  6.  
    Posted By: peterabbitnevermind the threads wtf are you gonna do with that 27.0mm fork crown


    Huh, didn't really pay attention to that. Thank you.

    Posted By: suicide_doorsHeh, if only I had bothered to follow the link. OP--You're going to spend more trying to get this setup to work than you want to. It makes a lot more sense to get the right fork, such as theSoma straight blade 1" threadless jobbie. You do know that Pake just began rolling out a straight blade fork as well, yeah? I have no idea if they are available, but I'm sure their website will tell you.


    I did notice the Pake fork but there is one snag- 1 1/8th in. steerer tube while my bike requires 1 inch.
    The Soma fork seems ideal, I'll probably save up and get one of those and paint it (chrome fork looks cool though, I don't know).

    Posted By: suicide_doorsAlso, as PR pointed out, the fork he has selected requires either a JIS crown race (and ISO cups, which isn't especially easy to work out) or needs to be milled to ISO. Either way, not something he can do himself, and not something which will be free. It makes more sense, especially since he is (seemingly) inexperienced, to use the right part for the job.


    That sounds OUTRAGEOUS for someone like me to attempt. Good thing I asked! Thanks for the help guys.
  7.  
    Posted By: torchestogetherThe Soma fork seems ideal, I'll probably save up and get one of those and paint it (chrome fork looks cool though, I don't know).

    The thing I love about chrome is that you can paint or powdercoat partially and leave a design, the crown, or the ends unpainted without issue.
  8.  
    True that, suicide_doors.
    I'll have to figure out something cool.
 
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