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    • CommentAuthorbikesroll
    • CommentTimeMar 6th 2010
    dear reader,
    im trying to put together a strong polo wheelset(700c)that i wont have to worry about. the trick is im trying to avoid having to ride deep V, or anything similar in weight or size. it seems all the advice ive gotten has led me to feel like deep V rims are the only way to go for polo. are there no other options as to a mid range rim that will hold up to abuse like the deep V design?

    so far i've heard velocity deep v, chukker, alex g6000 etc.. advice thats continually pointed toward a rim with larger, 30mm, sidewall. ideally im looking for a rim with a sidewall no more than 25mm tall and weigh between 400 and 500g but still hold up to polo abuse(within reason).

    from what i can tell the velocity fusion rim appears to be what im looking for. but i cant seem to find any feedback on any rim, in terms of lateral stiffness, unless its kids talking about how bomb their deep v's are.

    any tips? or know where i can find a reasonably priced(used) f/f wheelset that might fit my hopeful specifications?
    Thanks in advance!
    • CommentAuthorwes m.
    • CommentTimeMar 6th 2010
    If you dont want to go deep you should go wide. A salsa delgado 29er rim is something like 520 grams. I've beat the crap out of mine on trails and they have held up good. I'm sure there are similar touring/cx/29er rims that are sub 500g.
    • CommentAuthorthe rabbi
    • CommentTimeMar 6th 2010
    I was gonna say delgado or chukker. You needs something that is going to take abuse.
    • CommentAuthorbikesroll
    • CommentTimeMar 7th 2010
    yea wider seems like a good way to go.
    can anyone vouch for the fusions? .. i hear velocity's warranty policy is a pleasure.. are the blunts too wide?
    I can't speak to polo specifically, but I've used both the Blunt (on my posted MTB) and the Fusions (on a couple of other people's bikes) and have not had any bad experiences with either. The Fusion is not wide, and is really intended to be a mix of strength and weight (a medium between the Deep V and Aerohead). I don't know how strong they are compared with anything else in particular, but they're definitely stronger than most box rims, and definitely definitely stronger than an Aerohead. The Blunt is pretty wide and disc specific, so I wouldn't go there.
    • CommentAuthorSkidMark
    • CommentTimeMar 7th 2010
    Sun CR-18 or M13 II cheap and durable.
    The Sun Rhyno Lite comes in 700c. It's wide (27.5 outside, probably 21 inside), strong, and cheap.

    What tire size do you anticipate using?
    • CommentAuthorLegislator
    • CommentTimeMar 8th 2010 edited
    if you are building 36 spoke then salsa delgados are the best rim for the money hands down, they are really stiff and pretty much a boxed extrusion,and they are cheap ($40) and weigh 460g. I like Sun rims and use them but damn are those delgados legit.

    But if you want a wheel that is brutally strong laterally and vertically build it 48 hole with butted spokes, and you will be hard pressed to destroy it. If you are serious about how strong you want your wheels you can't beat 48 hole rhyno lites, they are tank strong and lighter than a CR18, plus 3/8 axle BMX front hubs in 48h are cheap anymore since BMX went to fancier 14mm and 20mm through axles. Also they now make fixed hubs in 48 for the trixters. Plus you can do really sweet lacing patterns with 48 hole stuff that you can't do on other wheels.

    Here is some rim data that is current on 48 hole biz:

    Clincher rim, Sun Rims "CR18"
    22.5mm width, aluminum, road, 48-hole, with eyelets, polished, 700C, 460gm Prolly about $36 a rim

    Clincher rim, Sun Rims "Rhyno Lite"
    27.5mm width, aluminum/ABT braking surface, touring, 48-hole, with eyelets, presta valve, black, 700C, 420gm prolly about $31-40

    Clincher rim, Velocity "Dyad"
    24mm width, 6061-T6 aluminum, road, 48-hole, without eyelets, silver anodized, 700C, 480gm Prolly about $70 a rim

    CR18 CR18 CR18 CR18 CR18 CR18 CR18 CR18 CR18 CR18 CR18 CR18 CR18 CR18 CR18 CR18 CR18 CR18 CR18 CR18 CR18 CR18 CR18 CR18............sun rims!
    • CommentAuthorbikesroll
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2010
    thanks for the feedback !

    .. at the moment im thinking that rather than a super low box section rim. im leaning toward a mid profile aero rim, something between 22 and 25mm depth would be perfect.

    ive been looking at the velocity fusion .. the kinlin xr240(possibly the IRO wheelset)... and the mavix cxp33.. if i could find a wheelset of any of those, 32 hole, laced to formula f/f, at a reasonable price i would sign up.
    ... anyone know which of these is my best bet? would this style rim hold up for polo?
    • CommentAuthorthe rabbi
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2010
    Like it was said before, you need something stronger for polo and I don't quite think 32h is appropriate.
    • CommentAuthorLegislator
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2010 edited
    Rather than split hairs over rim depth/width I would emplore you to think about things that are more important in terms of overall wheel strength, such as whether or not your rims have eyelets/double eyelets, quality of spokes/nipples, and spoke count. 32 spoke wheels are not as strong as 36, 40 or 48 spoke, and straight guage spokes will not build as resilient of a wheel as butted ones will. Same goes for alloy nipples over brass, when strength is paramount you can't beat Sapim brass polyax nipples, alloy nipples are weight weenie garbage. Good spokes to look at would be Sapim Strongs and DT Alpines since they are both thicker at the elbow. I would also recommend leaning toward more spoke crossings when building the wheel, IE 32 spoke 3 cross, 36 spoke 4 cross, 48 spoke 5 cross, so that momentary loads are distributed more evenly around the wheel.

    If money ain't a thing just get some mavic A719's (welded joint, double stainless eyelets), those are some of the toughest rims currently made, they don't come in colors though.

    And the one thing that matters most: MAKE SURE YOUR WHEELS ARE HANDBUILT BY A PRO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Machine built wheels are OK for regular use, but if you will be beating these up then you are wasting your money getting a prebuilt wheel, even if it has seemingly nicer parts. Machines can't match the skill of a good wheelbuilder when it comes to getting really even and high tension.
    • CommentAuthorSkidMark
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2010
    I hope I'm a pro wheelbuilder otherwise I am in grave danger.....
    • CommentAuthorthe rabbi
    • CommentTimeMar 9th 2010
    48h/5x is ridiculous. Holy crap.
    Mark I think you know what I mean, I should have said 'get your wheels built by hand not a machine'. Basically I am saying that if you are trying to get really strong wheels and you haven't ever built a wheel before, either plan on having it take you a long time to get it perfect and have someone to ask about techniques and tricks to building wheels, or take them to someone who is very experienced (I'd pick the 50 year old dude with giant hands at the LBS over the bratty late 20's dude like myself any day if I was going to pay $ to get wheels built, even though I've built wheels for 17 years). A wheel built with care by hand can ensure stress relief of the spokes all the way through the process, also make sure that elbows and crosses get seated before tension is at maximum as well as spoke line at the rim being improved (something that Sapim nipples help with ALOT).

    Like almost anything in life, building a wheel yourself is easy enough to get it to 90% of ultimate strength, but takes alot of know-how, time and tricks to get the last 10%.

    I would encourage people to build their own wheels, it is a very rewarding experience that teaches you a lot about the forces at play and the more you build, the better you'll get. Truing stands and tensiometers help a fair amount but are not necessary, and they can't match the feel you get from experience. 48h/5x is standard tandem stuff, and though now irrelevant with 20" wheels due to other technological advancements and the fact that a 20" will always be tougher than a 700c used to be pretty regular on BMX bikes. 48h/5x does make sense on bigger wheels that are going to be taking lots of abuse from hockey stops and side jumps and mallets on a polo court though.

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