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  1.  
    Still working on my buildlist and ive got 3 choices for my frame. Is there anything here I should steer clear of?

    If I want to blow a lot of dough - EAI Bareknuckle

    If I want to keep my frame on a value level - IRO Mark V Pro

    I don't even really know about this one - Volume Cutter

    Other than that, I'm looking for the best frame under $800 CAD and I would love suggestions
  2.  
    Well they are all good frames but id say put the money on the IRO its isnt too expensive and Ive heard nothing but good about their warranty and service
    get the Volume Cutter if you are gonna be doing tricks and such those frames are ment for that
  3.  
    You cannot go wrong with a bareknuckle. Stiff, light, bombproof, and a lot of fun, you can probably find one used for a little over 500
  4.  
    FYI, this could have easily been part of one of your earlier threads. It's nice to have these things all together. The way it is now, you have opinions about the MV already, not to mention steel quality and forks.

    Anyway, if you're building your first bike get the IRO. Hands down, no question. The MV Pro is a mid-range frame, but it is at the top end of the list of appropriate bikes for beginners. There is no reason to consider either the Bareknuckle or the VC, neither will give you any advantage over the Mark V at this point.
  5.  
    I do agree with you suicide, I probably could have fit this into other threads.

    Anyways, I am no longer a beginner. Ive been riding a fix for almost 5 months and i am tired of the quality of my road frame. I really do want something of high quality.
  6.  
    Well, as someone said in one of the other threads, you're better off buying better quality components with the money you save buying the MVP. If you plan to buy them regardless I guess it doesn't matter. Don't buy a Volume Cutter unless you plan to trick, as they weigh a lot more than similar frames.
  7.  
    Alright, Thank you.
    • CommentAuthorsfbee
    • CommentTimeSep 15th 2009
     
    I'm haven't seen you mention what road frame you're riding, but I have doubts that that frame is actually what needs updating (assuming you have a properly fitted, quality steel frame). It really sounds like you've just caught the upgrade itch, based on the hype you've read on assorted internet forums.

    In your first thread, you stated:

    Posted By: beater_peter_fixYeah, I don't really plan on doing crazy off road shit or crunching down on the fork from a 8 foot drop. I am looking for the most bang out of my buck right now, considering my fam ain't rich and I can pretty much only earn min wages.


    Now you're insisting that you need a bare knuckle with wheels laced to phil wood hubs, etc. I'm not sure what minimum wage is where you live, but I know that just that wheel set (with tubes, tires, rim strips, etc) with the bare knuckle frame (new at a modest sale price) will set you back about a months worth of pay. This doesn't even include the rest of the package, which judging from your posting trend will soon be a thomson post and stem, a brooks saddle, toshi doubles, etc. Now you're near or over 2 grand with a set of components that you likely don't need, and will probably fuck up (assuming you're like most people I know who are relatively new to cycling).

    While all of the above may carry a great reputation, they're not necessary for a quality ride, and definitely aren't worth putting yourself into a financial bind when you can get a quality complete bike, backed by an awesome company (e.g. IRO) at less than half the cost of just the wheels and frame alone.
  8.  
    You've assumed a lot about me and I'd like to say that I'm still judging how much I'm going to end up paying for frames and components. Buying a complete goes against everything I find interesting about building a bike.

    Right now I'm running a high-tensile 1970's rusted steel Peugeot UO8 frame that is oversized and has needed hours upon hours of care just to get it into somewhat ridable condition. I'll have photos next month. Its stock everything except for the wheelsets and I am soon replacing the crankset/BB with a SRAM Crank/BB combo for $180 as a birthday present.

    I am about to get hired right at the end of the week and from now untill the end of March I plan to spend almost all my earnings on building a nice ride for myself to make up for the shit I am on right now.

    Anyways, thank you for your suggestion, it is well-recieved
  9.  
    Ok I've got another question.

    Apparently, Reynolds 631 is better than Chro-Moly

    Why I am I paying twice the price for a Chro-Moly EAI Bareknuckle when I could just buy a 631 IRO MVP
  10.  
    The Bare Knuckle uses the Dedacciai COM 12.5 tubeset and is made in Italy as opposed to all IRO frames which are made in Taiwan. COM 12.5 is not as strong as 631 and therefore must be drawn in a larger thickness, but it is a good, strong tubeset.

    With the Bare Knuckle you're paying for the Italian construction (really not any higher in quality than Taiwan for the most part) and for the name. And the psudo-unique look.
  11.  
    Like everyone has told you already, you are wasting your money buying a Bare Knuckle. You ride a completely different frame made for a completely different purpose right now, so you're not even going to notice the differences between these track frames. Buy something reasonable and within your budget. You're still going to look cool.
  12.  
    :\

    Thank you
  13.  
    Okokokok, so it's established that 631 will always be better than chromo, but there has to be some hard difference between the two. The Bareknuckle must be constructed in some way that gives it a better ride or something... right?
  14.  
    It's just what I told you. EAI charges more because they pay more to have them manufactured in Italy as opposed to Taiwan. They charge more because people are willing to pay. That's all I have for you. I'm sure that there are other reasons, but none of them will make the Bare Knuckle any better of an option for you specifically.

    I'm not going to talk about ride quality because I haven't ridden either frame enough to say definitively which feels better. But even then, it's a purely subjective judgment. Really the two aren't even comparable bikes.

    The reason the MVP makes more sense for you (and really the vanilla Mark V makes even more sense) is because it is a quality frame at a great price and comes with a (better than almost any) crash warranty. I do understand that you are riding fixed, but a riding a fixed-converted road bike is not that same as riding a track bike or even a bike which was intended to be ridden fixed. You aren't going to feel any better riding the Bare Knuckle no matter how much more you pay for it. What WILL make your ride more comfortable is proper components. Invest in them.
  15.  
    Keep in mind the geometry between both EAI and MVP are probably different (slightly).

    Components aside, I think the biggest and most important decision will be frame size and fitment. If you can, ride both in several sizes to make your decision. If you can't...

    Then I would have to agree with suicide a bit. The ride difference between both will not justify the price difference. You particularly won't be able to tell the difference between both framesets in regards to the ride. All you'll notice is the upright geometry and overall feel that comes from the geometry of a track frame. An IRO will do that for you while keeping change in your pocket.

    To me, they're both mid-level framesets. Get what you like. I've personally always dug the cleanliness of EAI's. Check out EAI Brass Knuckles too...the geometry isn't as agressive (relaxed top tube)...making them purdy and dope (in my humble opinion). Don't know how much those are. Good luck man.
  16.  
    I first rode an IRO frameset, but upgraded to a EAI bareknuckle after a year. I liked the EAI quite abit more. It was lighter, and better geometry, giving it a more snappy acceleration and handling.
  17.  
    What IRO frameset did you ride, terrible?
  18.  
    Also I still dont understand how the Chromo EAI can be lighter if the Reynolds IRO is apparently lighter and stiffer...
  19.  
    Uhm, lighter? Where did you hear that? EAI does not publish frame weight as far as I can tell. I just called two shops which stock them and both didn't have weight specs. One was nice enough to weigh the 56cm frame and fork for me and it came out to 2940g (I'm not going to call this official by any means, but as a means of comparison it will work). The IRO 56cm frame and fork weighs about 2800g. The difference is about half a pound.
 
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