Quantcast
velospace is about bikes and the people who ride them buy / sell photos random












    • CommentAuthorkneeldown
    • CommentTimeJun 2nd 2009 edited
     
    Im building up an old Chaz Roberts pursuit frame : photo here

    Ive wrecked two stems with a hacksaw trying to being them down to the right length. Unfortunately those stems' diameters change and they dont fit down far enough now.
    I have one more stem but am reluctant to hacksaw it.

    Is there a better way ?
    Are there shorter stems available for short head tubes ?

    The head tube is 100mm, but I can only get my remaining stem in 45mm.


    thanks
    ni
  1.  
    I used to have this problem all the time, but most of my bikes are threadless now. I used to always cut them with a hacksaw. It took me a couple tries before I realized it's much easier to cut the angle on the opposite side from the bar clamp, and even then you still rarely get it at the the right angle, it still works though. I've never had one that changed diameters, but if it did then it wouldn't have fit any farther down in a normal headtube anyway. The inside is the problem, the hole gets smaller the higher you go, and if you cut too far you'll never get the wedge to work right. Try looking for a steel stem, something like an old salsa, I don't imagine the steel would be tapered the same way the aluminum is. Then of course you finally get one to work, and realize that the wedge bolt doesn't have threads far enough, and you can't even tighten the wedge all the way up anyway. So good luck with it, but it's definitely a struggle, you can make it work though.
  2.  
    the nitto jags are nice and short, i had a really short head tube on my last bike (8cm) and the jag fit great
    • CommentAuthorSkidMark
    • CommentTimeJun 2nd 2009
     
    Measure twice cut once?




    A good old cheap but solid stem to modify is the SR Custom which came on almost every mid-to-low end bike from Japan in the late-70's/early 80's.

    You can get a shorter bolt.

    Also you can adjust the angle you cut with a hand file, never underestimate the power of handtools.

    The inside of the steerer tube often tapers to a thicker wall at the bottom, or maybe there's a wedge stuck in there, see that a lot on old bikes.
  3.  
    You are all making a mountain out of a mole hill. Just push the stem all the way through the head tube. If it seems tight, give her a couple wacks with a 9 pound sledge hammer.

    Now, heat the bottom of the stem portion sticking through the bottom of the fork crown with a blowtorch. Next, gently...smack the melty aluminum flat against the fork crown.
    And now your ready for action!

    (Tip: if the stem feels a bit loose in the steer tube after you have compleated the last steps, simply scerw a 6" lag screw thrugh the side of the headtube, and out the other side. This should help stiffin that bugger up a bit, and now your really riding a fixie buddy.
    Let me know if I can help with any other issues!
  4.  
    HA!
    • CommentAuthorSkidMark
    • CommentTimeJun 3rd 2009
     
    I know you're just trying to be funny, but the fact that you think shortening the quill of a stem an inch or so and getting a shorter bolt is a "mountain", speaks volumes about your mechanical and fabrication abilities.
  5.  
    Aw jeese. I must know NOTHING about bikes.
    The fact you took any part of what I said literally speaks volumes about your wit, social skills and possibly your overall intelligence
  6.  
    Wait. You're not serious.

    BRB.
    • CommentAuthorNash
    • CommentTimeJun 3rd 2009 edited
     
    DAMNIT....i just ruined my perfectly good huffy frame because of your sage advice.

    edit - solved the problem by bolting swivel casters to the ends of the fork.....works great but you have to steer with 2 pieces of twine
    • CommentAuthorHyde
    • CommentTimeJun 3rd 2009
     
    Nice looking frame! Dumb question...Are you bottoming out against the brake bolt? Hard to tell from the picture but a std stem should bottom out, or pretty close. Steerer tube should be the same inside DIA all the way through & you should go through the bottom of the fork if you don't have the brake mounted.
  7.  
    How deep is it to the brake bolt?
 


about, FAQ & policies | contact | blog | status | resources | site map | graphic design
© 2005-2009 velospace. All Rights Reserved.