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How-To/Mechanics: Mavic ellipse issues

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    Has anyone had the same problem as me? I have a brand new Mavic Ellipse track wheelset and I am having the worst time trying to make the rear work. This is my second set. The first one finally stripped out after many attempts. I have tried different cogs and lockrings including the mavic lockrings that came with it. The issue I am having is that the cog keeps slipping on the rear hub. I had my lbs make it vise-tight on both sides of the hub but still it slips. It is as if it were stripped but I can tell that it is not (yet). I suspect that the lockring is garbage. But what kind of lockring is this? Where can i get a replacement thats compatible but made of better metal?
    • CommentAuthorOtto Rax
    • CommentTimeNov 3rd 2008
     
    Take a look at the width of the cog. Some cogs are too narrow (not the teeth, but the threaded section), and even with the lockring FULLY tightened, it doesn't even touch the cog. I've seen this on ellipses before, and people have either had to change cogs brands or put a spacer in the system.
  3.  
    i have a pair of mavic ellipses
    i bought them used and have had o problems with the rear hub and i whipskid, standup skid and do lots of other skid and they have been fine
    i use the soma chrome cog
    u have to use the lockring that came with the mavics because the lockring is specific to that wheelset
    --Rich
    • CommentAuthorAaron C
    • CommentTimeNov 4th 2008
     
    honestly sounds more like a cog or threading issue than a lock ring issue. if i am hearing you right the cog is slipping during normal (forward) pedaling, not skiding or soft pedaling. it should not feel sloppy at all under normal pedal motion as that will only tighten the cog more.
    if the slop you are feeling is during skidding or softpedaling it may very well be that the lockring isn't installed correctly or the cog isn't spun on tight enough.
    are you sure the hub or cog is not stripped? honestly a properly tightened cog should hold just fine during normal pedaling or light softpedaling without issue.
    your lockring is more of a security system then the active retension mechanism for the cog.
  5.  
    that's why people ride bolt on
  7.  
    The slipping is happening on skids. I'll try Otto's suggestion. The hub isn't stripped. I'll try yet another cog and post the results later.
    • CommentAuthortracksloth
    • CommentTimeNov 4th 2008 edited
     
    Posted By: aliderkrasse: that's why people ride bolt on
    ~~~
    What's that got to do with it?
    • CommentAuthorOtto Rax
    • CommentTimeNov 4th 2008
     
    they ARE bolt on....
  10.  
    duh... no more stripped cogs or expensive track hubs
    Photobucket
    • CommentAuthorAaron C
    • CommentTimeNov 4th 2008
     
    i think they thought you meant bolt on axle.
    • CommentAuthorroadie
    • CommentTimeNov 5th 2008
     
    otto rax is right. i had the exact same problem using a miche cog system. you need a spacer installed before putting on your cog, then tighten down the supplied lockring.
  13.  
    a spacer before the cog? Never had to mess with that before. I'll give it a try though. What is this bolt cog on nonsense?
  14.  
    nonsense? your comment makes no sense
  15.  
    it's a front disc brake hub with the cog bolted on. no more stripped threads
  16.  
    interesting. and it takes a special cog that's drilled for bolts?
  17.  
    yeah it can be done on a drill press, a lathe, a mill or with some vice grips and a hand drill (I would strongly advice NOT to do it this way) but yeah all your old stripped cogs can still be used this way
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    and the hub must be front disc brake?
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    yup can be a rear if you don't mind the ugly gear cassette on the other side but I prefer front loose ball mtb disc hubs just replace the axle and space it to 120mm and there you go
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    I feel like this would be as or more expensive than a traditional track hub set up and not to mention eliminate the nicety of getting a nice light, precision, matching wheelset. Also it does nothing for a stripped hub, only a stripped cog. I have never stripped a cog but if I did I would replace it for cheap instead of getting an expensive disc hub and paying to have it laced, modified, etc...With all that said, however, I like to know the option is out there.
  21.  
    it does plenty for a stripped hub since you won't need that hub anymore, also at $5 starting and often selling price on ebay I don't think a front disc hub is more expensive than a cheap shitty track hub starting at $38 for the rear.

    Admitting that you would have to pay someone to lace up your wheel shows a lot of knowledge about wheels...

    Fact is I can build a nice matching, precision track wheelset with a disc hub in the rear for around $100 now how about that... and I can guarantee it will be nicer, lighter and more precise than most of the shit out there I see people ride everyday.

    I know this comment doesn't help the topic so here is my advice to use that poorly machined mavic hub: sounds like you need a spacer but you already know that if that doesn't work you could try jb welding or loctite but you probably already know that too so good luck with that... I would've emailed mavic and see what they say, if they have no good explanation/fix I would send that shit in and get my money back
    my two cents
  22.  
    word
    • CommentAuthorroadie
    • CommentTimeNov 7th 2008
     
    Back to the mavic hub/cog issue, i've read about this more than a few times over at bikeforums. Mavic should really just include a couple of spacers in that goodie bag that comes with the wheelset.
    • CommentAuthortracksloth
    • CommentTimeNov 10th 2008
     
    Worked it out, seems like. Put a spacer in after the cog. Now its solid. Thanks for the advice guys.
  25.  
    Shimano Durace cog.
    • CommentAuthorMicklol
    • CommentTimeMar 31st 2009
     
    Dura Ace cog works ? or doesn't work?
  27.  
    Posted By: aliderkrasseit does plenty for a stripped hub since you won't need that hub anymore, also at $5 starting and often selling price on ebay I don't think a front disc hub is more expensive than a cheap shitty track hub starting at $38 for the rear.

    Admitting that you would have to pay someone to lace up your wheel shows a lot of knowledge about wheels...

    Fact is I can build a nice matching, precision track wheelset with a disc hub in the rear for around $100 now how about that... and I can guarantee it will be nicer, lighter and more precise than most of the shit out there I see people ride everyday.

    I know this comment doesn't help the topic so here is my advice to use that poorly machined mavic hub: sounds like you need a spacer but you already know that if that doesn't work you could try jb welding or loctite but you probably already know that too so good luck with that... I would've emailed mavic and see what they say, if they have no good explanation/fix I would send that shit in and get my money back
    my two cents


    Oh man, you shouldn’t have put this picture in my head!
    I see a fixed gear in my future with your set up in back and a disk brake in front...
    • CommentAuthormoozer16
    • CommentTimeApr 17th 2009
     
    i have 2 sporkets on my ellipses. the first did not slip with dura ace sporket. i got nother mavic lock ring and dura acesporket fitted. it slipped. I have found that one side of the lockring have little lines on the outside like ( ///////// ). that side should go against the sporket. there should be no need for spacers. i got the lockring turned round and it now works fine!!!! it is mavics fault coz there is no intructions but it is what causes so many problems. i have raced on them both and skidded and no problem


    hope this helps
    • CommentAuthorOtto Rax
    • CommentTimeApr 17th 2009
     
    I still recommend a small freehub spacer. 1-2mm

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