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    • CommentAuthorSlyRed
    • CommentTimeNov 9th 2010 edited
     
    For 2011 I'm building a clone of the venerable Pashley Guv'nor. I'm hoping to spend less than 1500 bucks. The three speed Guv'nor goes for about $1800.



    I've purchased a frame for the project. a Raleigh Record Ace, late-seventies. I've ordered parts to convert the bottom bracket from cottered to cotter-less. Phil Wood BB and retainers and a Sugino XD crank. In the process of spec'ing out the wheels, which will have Sturmey Archer internal brakes, three speed rear and dyno front. I'll build them on 700C Sun CR-18 rims (black).

    • CommentAuthorSlyRed
    • CommentTimeNov 9th 2010
     
    Here's the finished wheelset for Project Blackadder. They'll just sit around now until the frame is back from powdercoating. I'll mount the Schwalbe tyres as soon as the wheels are trued. I'm still trying to decide on the Brooks saddle, but I'm waiting to get my Cardiff leather handlebar grips so I can select the color that matches.

    The front hub is a Sturmey Archer X-FDD, internal brake dyno hub. I laced it to a 700C Sun CR-18 rim. The rear is a Sturmey Archer X-RD3, internal brake three speed hub, laced to a 700C Sun CR-18 rim.

    • CommentAuthorveggie
    • CommentTimeNov 9th 2010 edited
     
    I, or my dad, just this.

    http://velospace.org/forums/discussion/3015/2/pathcafewhatever-racer-conversion/

    Its not painted yet, but thats getting done soon.
    • CommentAuthorSlyRed
    • CommentTimeNov 9th 2010
     
    My frame is at the powdercoaters now (week of 11/6). It's been tentatively promised for delivery by 11/19. The wheels are complete (I built them myself) and all the components are delivered except for my Brooks saddle. I'll post frequently during the build up.

    Sly
    • CommentAuthorSlyRed
    • CommentTimeNov 10th 2010
     
    I ordered my crank parts from Ben's Cycle & Velo-Orange. The crank arms, ring and cranks bolts came from Ben's. The chain guard and pedals came from Velo-Orange. Based on my scrutinizing close up pictures of the Guv'nor I believe that I've got the exact crankset, or a very close facsimile. So here's the parts list: Sugino XD2 cranks (I bought 165 mm, but they come in longer lengths), 48 tooth ring, and a 110 BCD chain guard. The pedals are MKS Sylvan Stream. These are exactly what Pashley specifies for the Guv'nor. I bolted the crank snuggly onto the Phil Wood bottom bracket just to make sure all the clearances were good.



  1.  
    Thats so sick...i want one
    • CommentAuthorveggie
    • CommentTimeNov 10th 2010
     
    1500 bucks little man, put that shit in my hand
    • CommentAuthorSlyRed
    • CommentTimeNov 11th 2010
     
    I mounted the Schwalbe Delta Cruiser tyres (700 x 35mm) on the new wheels. Now they'll wait for the frame to return from the powdercoaters. I did have a pleasant surprise on Saturday afternoon. My postman delivered my Tubus Fly (41000) rack from Star Bike in Germany. It's a model that's not yet available to the Tubus distributers in the USA. The Fly is a very slim and light stainless steel rack that will be a perfect addition to the Blackadder project.

    • CommentAuthorSlyRed
    • CommentTimeNov 12th 2010
     
    Just a picture of the Tubus Fly rack being test fitted on the frame. Yes, a rack will take away from the simplicity of the overall look of Blackadder, but I need someplace to carry stuff for those BBC Tweed rides.

    • CommentAuthorSlyRed
    • CommentTimeNov 14th 2010 edited
     
    Here's the latest on my saddle selection. Even though I could have bought a Cardiff saddle that would have probably matched the handlebar grips very well, I opted for a Brooks B17 Special with copper plated rails in antique brown. This color is not one that is typically available from Brooks. Mine came from a seller in The Netherlands who has a bespoke lot for sale on eBay. I also ordered the matching Brooks Challenge saddle bag. It's just big enough for a few tools, but that will be fine since I plan to use my panniers for longer rides.
    I plan to carry the copper accents through with a Crane bell mounted on the stem.

  2.  
    Posted By: SlyRedI also ordered the matching Brooks Challenge saddle bag.

    That sounds more like it.
    • CommentAuthorSlyRed
    • CommentTimeNov 14th 2010
     
    Thanks for catching my typo!

    I received all my handlebar components last week and assembled them this weekend. The bars are Nitto Northroad style, B-352AA 56cm in width. The stem is a Nitto Technomic 70mm x 25.4 mm. I opted for the smooth leather Cardiff Julian grips in dark brown. The brake levers are Origin8 ProPulsion style and the gear changer is a standard Sturmey Archer. This is the same type used on 3 speed Guv'nors. The Sturmey Archer three speed hub comes with a nice twist grip changer but you could only use it on a straighter handlebar. The color of the grips is actually darker than it looks in the picture. Here's the handlebar setup and saddle/saddlebag together.

    • CommentAuthorwes m.
    • CommentTimeNov 14th 2010
     
    Looking good thus far. How are you doing on your budget?
    • CommentAuthorSlyRed
    • CommentTimeNov 14th 2010
     
    I'll give a full accounting next weekend, but I don't think I'm going to come in much under £800 (~$1300). This wasn't a cheap project, but it was built with very nice components. I handbuilt the wheelset myself. Except for the frame everything was new.
    • CommentAuthorveggie
    • CommentTimeNov 14th 2010
     
    The way my dad did it was cheap, everything on the bike he had laying around, well except the bars and tires. Wheels came from his kilo, seatpost came with my tandem, and the seat also came from his kilo.
    • CommentAuthorwes m.
    • CommentTimeNov 14th 2010
     
    Every now and then you have to open up the wallet and throw a bunch of cash at a bicycle. I've done it exactly 1.5 times and both times it worked (one brand new bike + parts swap, one bike built out of quickly purchased used parts). Parts bin bikes are rad but they can be so long and tedious to piece together. Both methods have their merits.

    It would take FOREVER to build this bike without throwing cash at it. Classy is way harder than performance when it comes to building out of a parts bin.
    • CommentAuthorSlyRed
    • CommentTimeNov 14th 2010
     
    I had no parts bin. Everything had to be bought.
    • CommentAuthorSlyRed
    • CommentTimeNov 20th 2010
     
    OK, here's the ledgersheet. The basic bike came in at about $1250, which is just shy of £800. An advisement and a caveat: You could build the same bike with a Sturmey Archer front hub without the dyno for a few quid less. I built my own wheels, so if you have to hire that work you'd probably spend about $100 more. You can't buy this wheelset off the shelf. I blew the budget on a pricey rack and panniers, but they are duly noted as options.

    • CommentAuthorSlyRed
    • CommentTimeNov 20th 2010
     
    OK, here's the first picture of the build. I've encountered a couple of small engineering problems (Sturmey Archer hubs and Raleigh Record Ace frame issues). I'll get them sorted out soon. I need to tweak the chainline just a bit, but overall the build is going great.

    • CommentAuthorwes m.
    • CommentTimeNov 20th 2010
     
    Your bike is beautiful. Have you been on any rides yet?
  3.  
    looks great
    • CommentAuthorSlyRed
    • CommentTimeNov 20th 2010
     
    Not rideable yet, but soon I hope.
    • CommentAuthorSlyRed
    • CommentTimeNov 21st 2010
     
    I made a little more progress today, but still no ride. I measured the chain and put it on the bike and secured the front brake cable. I need to fabricate an extension to connect the rear brake fulcrum to the frame clamp. I'll get around to that in a few days. Just for fun I put on the Blackadder top tube decals.

    I think today's pictures are much better away from my cluttered garage.



  4.  
    Looks nice. The only things which look out of place are the rim stickers.
    • CommentAuthorSlyRed
    • CommentTimeNov 21st 2010 edited
     
    They'll be going away soon. I just need to get a few more mechanical things done, then I'll start on the aesthetics. Mounting the rear wheel has been difficult (the setup for the brakes and gear changer).

    Thanks for the comments.
    • CommentAuthorAaron C
    • CommentTimeNov 21st 2010
     
    Those Sun CR18 stickers are a serious pain in the rear to remove. The decals on the pair i had shrapnelized and left behind a ton of adhesive, hopefully you have better luck. Its always nice when decals come off cleanly, in one piece, and without the use of goo gone.
    • CommentAuthorSlyRed
    • CommentTimeNov 21st 2010
     
    Yeah, under usual circumstances I'd just leave the rim stickers on, but for this bike I want to give a semblance of 'vintage'. I'll try peeling them off tomorrow.
    • CommentAuthorlatron
    • CommentTimeNov 21st 2010
     
    Posted By: SlyRedI'll try peeling them off tomorrow.

    Just use naptha / lighter fluid / goo gone (it's all the same stuff). Works great, and doesn't harm the rims or anodizing.
    • CommentAuthorSlyRed
    • CommentTimeNov 26th 2010 edited
     
    Friday, November 26, 2010: Blackadder Project Update: By popular demand the rim stickers have been removed! ;^) If you look closely you can see that I put on the 'Raleigh' downtube decals. I also had to fabricate a link to secure the rear brake fulrum to the frame bracket. Once that was accomplished I put on the rear brake cable and took Blackadder for a short ride. Sorry there are no pictures of me riding, freezing my stainless steel nuts off! Sometime this weekend I'll set up the three speed rear hub. I made a run to the hardware store this morning to get some nice chrome button head bolts and chrome lock nuts for securing the rear rack and the brake fulcrum.

    Used an unconventional 'Made in England' decal at the bottom of the seat tube.

    Blackadder is about 90% finished and it's too cold to ride here in Chicago.





    • CommentAuthoreaglerock
    • CommentTimeNov 26th 2010
     
    Posted By: SlyRedI made a run to the hardware store this morning to get some nice chrome button head bolts and chrome lock nuts for securing the rear rack and the brake fulcrum.

    Odds are, you won't find chrome-plated nuts/bolts (and definitely not locknuts) at a hardware store. A hardware store should have stainless steel, though; that may be good enough. If you really want chrome plating, you'll have to go to a specialty fastener place, or go to an auto customizing shop.
  5.  
    Posted By: SlyRed


    That is one very pretty bicycle. Nice job, to say the least.

    Posted By: eaglerock
    Posted By: SlyRedI made a run to the hardware store this morning to get some nice chrome button head bolts and chrome lock nuts for securing the rear rack and the brake fulcrum.

    Odds are, you won't find chrome-plated nuts/bolts (and definitely not locknuts) at a hardware store. A hardware store should have stainless steel, though; that may be good enough. If you really want chrome plating, you'll have to go to a specialty fastener place, or go to an auto customizing shop.


    There's an Ace that I know of here in Chicago that sells an odd assortment of chrome plated acorn and pike nuts in both SAE and metric. I still prefer the stainless variety because it's cheaper, doesn't rust (duh) and can be polished to a brilliant, chrome-like luster with almost no effort on a buffing wheel.
    • CommentAuthorSlyRed
    • CommentTimeNov 26th 2010
     
    Yeah, here in my suburb there's an Ace and a TruValue that have a wide selection of stainless steel, polished stainless steel and chrome plated hardware in all the good sizes for bikes (5-10 mm). On all my racks I use Allen socket button head screws (the head is very thin), I thread them in from the inside of the fender/rack braze-on then secure the rack with a SS washer and an acorn nut on the outside. Looks real slick! I'll take some close-ups soon.
    • CommentAuthorveggie
    • CommentTimeNov 26th 2010
     
    This looks awesome, I think my dad has decided to leave his "raw"
    • CommentAuthorSlyRed
    • CommentTimeNov 26th 2010
     
    I put on the shifter cable and adjusted the three speed hub since I took the pictures this morning. Went for a very short ride (it's freezing here in Chicago) and the bike performed beautifully. I'm sure it will need a few tweaks once the cables stretch out.
    • CommentAuthor1gear
    • CommentTimeNov 26th 2010
     
    That ride is awesome man. Love the retro look.
    • CommentAuthorAaron C
    • CommentTimeNov 26th 2010
     
    Posted By: eaglerockOdds are, you won't find chrome-plated nuts/bolts (and definitely not locknuts) at a hardware store.


    just to add another voice: i work at a hardware store and we sell a lot of chromed (and Stainless) nuts/bolts.




    on the other hand Sly, Michael and I all live in the midwest, maybe there is a middle american chrome fastener conspiracy.
    • CommentAuthorAaron C
    • CommentTimeNov 26th 2010
     
    Oh, your bike looks bad ass. In my opinion better than the bike you used as inspiration, well done.
    • CommentAuthorSlyRed
    • CommentTimeNov 27th 2010
     
    One more picture from this weekend's work. The rear hub is cabled and I've ridden the bike a short distance just to check things out.

  6.  
    Pure class, as is the choice of rack.
    I would have gone a diff. way on the crank, but what you chose is perfectly faithful to your source of inspiration.
  7.  
    Absolutely beautiful. Congratulations on the rideability!
 



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