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    • CommentAuthorMRE
    • CommentTimeSep 22nd 2009
     
    Hey,

    Fixie project in progress here...
    I don't have a huge budget, and considering that this is my first fixed gear, I don't want to buy high quality parts, yet...

    I'm currently shopping for a crankset... Always looking on eBay for older Campagnolo parts, but it's still expensive... :)
    I was thinking of getting the Sugino RD Track (not messenger) Crankset... It costs around 85$, I know it's cheap, but reviews sound good...

    Any opinions, suggestions?

    Thanks :)
  1.  
    Get the Sram s300 courier crankset, it comes with bottombracket on ebay for 87 bucks. Its smooth, light, and stiff. What else could you ask out of a crank?
    • CommentAuthorMRE
    • CommentTimeSep 22nd 2009
     
    Cool, I'll check that out! Thanks

    Question...

    Let's say I get something like this :

    http://cgi.ebay.com/CAMPAGNOLO-CAMPY-CRANKS-52-TEETH-45-TEETH-170-STRADA_W0QQitemZ200385803981QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2ea7ecb6cd&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14#ht_3788wt_1167

    Can I remove the small chainring?? and use the crankset
    • CommentAuthoreaglerock
    • CommentTimeSep 22nd 2009
     
    Posted By: MREAlways looking on eBay for older Campagnolo parts, but it's still expensive... :)

    There's old Campy, and there's good old Campy. Just because it says "Campagnolo" on it doesn't make it a wise purchase.

    The old Record/Nuovo Record/Super Record cranks (early 60s to mid-80s) had a reputation for developing cracks around the spider - the star in the middle that holds the chainring to the crankarm. Cracks in metal are never a good thing; cracks in metal subjected to a lot of stress are particularly bad, as they may give way in big ways in dangerous situations.

    Most old Campy cranksets have not failed in this way, and I don't mean to cast aspersions on them. I've owned 70s campy cranksets and I've ridden 70s campy cranksets, and my crankarms have never torn off the spiider. Old Campy chainrings are bulletproof. But I build a lot of oldie bikes, so shop guys give me oldie bike advice; "don't buy a 70's Record crankset without checking for cracks first" is a regular bit of advice I get.

    Newer Campy cranksets do not have this problem. Basically, everything in the C-Record era (1986-1994) and the modern era (1994-present) is absolutely trustworthy. They're much more 'aerodynamic' in appearance than the older cranks; smoother, more rounded. They also use different-sized chainrings from the older cranks: 135 BCD instead of the older 144 BCD (which is also the standard for track cranks, partly because Campagnolo was the most prestigious crank manufacturer).

    Other companies in the 60s-70s made cranks that looked a lot like the Campy Nuovo Record/Super Record cranks, including Miche and Gipiemme in Italy and Sugino in Japan. If that's the look you want, an off-brand might be a better option; it will almost certainly be cheaper than Campagnolo, just because it doesn't have the fancy name. Or you may want to get a newer Campagnolo crankset; 90s Veloce cranks can be gotten from eBay for around $30, and there are a variety of 135 BCD chainrings in tracky sizes (say, 44T-49T) from manufacturers like FSA, Stronglight, Token and others. Campagnolo came up with a way to dump the last of their backstock of square-taper cranks last year; they started bundling their remaining alloy Record cranksets (which were replaced by carbon in 2004, and with non-square bottom brackets in 2007) with chainrings drilled for mounting on both 135 BCD and 144 BCD crankarms.

    Posted By: MRELet's say I get something like this :

    http://cgi.ebay.com/CAMPAGNOLO-CAMPY-CRANKS-52-TEETH-45-TEETH-170-STRADA_W0QQitemZ200385803981QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2ea7ecb6cd&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14#ht_3788wt_1167

    Can I remove the small chainring?? and use the crankset

    Yes, you can. That's the standard fixed-gear conversion: To use whatever double-ring road crank you already have, remove the chainring you'll never use (usually by using shorter chainring bolts, or putting spacing washers in place of the missing chainring), put the remaining chainring on the inside or outside (depending on which lines up better with the cog). You may have to replace the bottom bracket or futz with spacers to get the chainline right.
    • CommentAuthorbionnaki
    • CommentTimeSep 22nd 2009
     
    alien or IRO crank is another option.
    • CommentAuthorAKintheAK
    • CommentTimeSep 23rd 2009
     
    I would say sram omnium is one of the best cranks going on out there right now, the gxp BB will give you a more solid and lighter ride than that of a square taper BB. so if you dont ever want to have to upgrade down the road, go omnium.

    The omnium can be a little pricey, so If you are looking for a little more value, go with the s300, i havent personally used it ( I have used rds and the currently use the omnium) but I'm sure its still good stuff.
  2.  
    I also suggest the SRAM Omnium Cranks. I was able to get mine for around 140 with chainring and bottom bracket.

    These are good enough cranks that you won't have to upgrade in the future, but are still affordable.

    It would be worth it for you to just buy something better now, instead of something cheap, then upgrading again later. Simply because the cheap cranks will have no resale used value, so you will end up actually just spending MORE money then you would have if you just bought something decent to begin with.
  3.  
    Well consider this, is it a track specific frame, or is it a road conversion? I say this because,, I have used campy road cranksets, converted them to a single speed crankset, and just used that, but I only used them on road frame conversions, they didnt line up correctly on my orbea or my uno(track specific frames). But that is just a suggestion, if you want to do campy, you can find cranksets for decent prices and just convert them.
  4.  
    Posted By: eaglerockYes, you can. That's the standard fixed-gear conversion: To use whatever double-ring road crank you already have, remove the chainring you'll never use (usually by using shorter chainring bolts, or putting spacing washers in place of the missing chainring), put the remaining chainring on the inside or outside (depending on which lines up better with the cog). You may have to replace the bottom bracket or futz with spacers to get the chainline right.


    What he said,, haha!!!!
    • CommentAuthorMRE
    • CommentTimeSep 23rd 2009
     
    Thanks for the info...

    How do I make sure the BB that comes with the Omnium will fit my frame? or is it standard stuff...?

    Any opinions / experiences for these : http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=188_193_658&products_id=3137 ?
  5.  
    Do you have a frame already? What is it? What was on it before?

    The two important pieces of info are the BB shell width (Omnium and S300 are the current standard: 68 mm), and BB thread type (both are English threaded, also standard on most frames these days).

    Since you're on a budget, you're better off getting the S300. There won't be an improvement in performance justifying the $80-$100 price difference. Especially since this is your first fixed bike.
    • CommentAuthorLyKqiD
    • CommentTimeSep 23rd 2009 edited
     
    When sizing a BB there are standards however, you still need to do some sizing. Having the original BB will help you do so

    68 x 113 ISIS English

    68mm is a standard shell width (some are 70, but those are Italian standard).
    113mm delineates the length of the BB and depends on the BB shell and cranks you will use.
    This will most effect the performace because of chain line and other clearances.
    Because it is a fixed gear you neednt worry about derailer clearances and all the details.
    ISIS means splined, as opposed to square taper. It is the Crank/Axle connection.
    English delineates the threading of the BB, others are ISIS Overdrive, French, Italian etc.
  6.  
    Posted By: terrible_one49It would be worth it for you to just buy something better now, instead of something cheap, then upgrading again later. Simply because the cheap cranks will have no resale used value, so you will end up actually just spending MORE money then you would have if you just bought something decent to begin with.

    I don't get this. Your rational makes sense for someone building an enthusiast bike, but not someone who has no experience with fixed gear. I don't mean to be a dick, but you might as well recommend that he buy a Bare Knuckle because a Kilo or something else cheap will have no resale value. The Omnium is a good value, no doubt. But not to someone who has never ridden fixed before. He's better off buying something decent to start out with, not spending a bunch of money, and upgrading if he needs something better in the future. At this point he will not see any benefit for the extra $90.
    • CommentAuthorMRE
    • CommentTimeSep 23rd 2009
     
    Well the frame I have is a regular one, I know this means nothing but it doesn't come from a rare or special bike, it was just a standard road bike...

    I was planning on getting the Sugino RD which costs around 85$ + the matching BB which costs about 35$
    I don't mind spending a bit more if I'm gonna get a better ride... There are some deals on eBay for that Ominum + BB

    Any thoughts on this : http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=188_193_658&products_id=3137 ?

    Thanks
    • CommentAuthorbionnaki
    • CommentTimeSep 23rd 2009
     
    dont bother with RDs. the chainline is often off.

    http://www.irocycle.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=120
    +
    http://www.irocycle.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=117

    and be done with it.
  7.  
    Primato has a proprietary 135 BCD, meaning you will have to buy Miche rings. Otherwise the Primato is similar to the Sugino 75 and is NOT right for you.

    I already said this in another thread today (and have said and seen it said plenty of times recently), but you're not experienced enough to notice a "better ride" from one crank to another right now, especially if you're spending over $50.

    Therefore, you're not going to get a "better/faster/stiffer ride" out of the Omnium than the S300 or the Sugino RD or Messenger, or an IRO, Alien or anything else. The S300+bb can be had for $75 +shipping, better if you wait for a deal. The only discernible difference is weight (all .2 LBS of it between the two SRAM made cranks), and your frame is probably heavy as it is. You're better off spending that money elsewhere.
    • CommentAuthorLyKqiD
    • CommentTimeSep 23rd 2009
     
    I hate to say, but it sounds like he is converting an 80's lugged beater, I dont think he needs primato or omnium cranks.
    Bionnaki is probably right one this one.

    And like suicide said, its too early in the game for him to feel any discernible difference between $300 cranks and $75 cranks.
    • CommentAuthorMRE
    • CommentTimeSep 23rd 2009 edited
     
    Well, I wouldn't say beater... It's in great condition, and from what I've been told, it was pretty expensive back then...
    I don't think it's a crappy frame

    http://velospace.org/node/21020 (not mine... but someone on here has one)
  8.  
    Well, that has early '90s Shimano components, so you'll have a standard 68mm bb shell.

    With regard to your frame, I know Steve Bauer was a racer and had a line of bikes sold in Canada in the late '80s and early '90s. Otherwise there isn't a whole lot of information I can find on them. Anyway, it really doesn't matter. Your frame is not of any significant value and is going to become your first foray into fixed riding, so it's a beater. The Omnium (Sugino 75, Miche Primato, etc) doesn't belong on the bike, it won't make any difference to you except in wallet weight.

    It makes better sense, since you're testing the waters, that you buy a crank which will get you in the door. As I said, this way if you don't like riding fixed, if you crash, or whatever else happens, you're not kicking yourself for spending so much building up your now useless bike. You will still be able to sell a semi-decent crank (and whatever else you put on the bike) in the event that you choose to upgrade. But really, if you do upgrade, you're likely to move to an actual track bike, not an old road conversion.
    • CommentAuthorMRE
    • CommentTimeOct 7th 2009
     
    I see... thanks!

    I've been looking at chainrings and separate cranks and some have for example 130, 144 BCD etc...
    That refers to the size of the threaded holes.. right?
    Now, when I check to buy a set of chainring bolts, it never makes mention of the size...

    Novice/newbie question wtv, tell me what I'm not getting here :)

    Thanks
    • CommentAuthorjaybird74
    • CommentTimeOct 7th 2009
     
    Yes, the BCD means Bolt Circle Diameter, the diameter of how far across the bolts on the ring and crank are.

    130 is standard road. 135 is proprietary to Miche, which has been said already.

    144 has become track standard, mainly due to OG Campy using this BCD, manufacturers modeled their high end cranks after them.

    Chainring bolts are pretty much universal in their width, it's the length that matters for this exercise. You need bolts that are only long enough for a single chainring. You'll see chainring bolts for single, double, or triple cranks. You obviously want single ring bolts. Needless to say, you want as many bolts as there are holes in your chainring...5 is the common amount.
  9.  
    Not quite. It isn't bolt size, but the diameter of the circle the bolt holes on the crank make. Wait, that's hard to understand...

    Here's Sheldon Brown's explanation.

    Also, the bolt holes on cranks aren't threaded. If you're buying a ring and crank separately you'll also need to purchase stack bolts made for track or single speed use.

    Track bikes use a BCD of 144, most modern road bikes use 130. Depending on what product you're looking at, either one of those sizes will be fine. If you're looking to graduate to "real" track riding eventually, 144 would be the better choice. But do understand that if you end up using 144, your options will be more limited and more expensive (for the most part).
    • CommentAuthorxhzzyx
    • CommentTimeOct 10th 2009
     
    Hey MRE,

    I'm in the same position as you, I have a converted road bike (norco). I got the sram s300, and it's a great crankset. It's stiff, the chain line is as good as you can get with a conversion, and it's nice looking as well. I payed double for it as opposed to what you'd be getting it on ebay (damn lbs...) but it's DEFINITELY worth it. My bike runs smoooth.

    If you need to know anything else about it, ask away.
    • CommentAuthorthe rabbi
    • CommentTimeOct 10th 2009
     
    it's not your lbs's fault they charge msrp for the products they sell.
    online shops are going to put bike shops out of business in the forseeable future.
    • CommentAuthorxhzzyx
    • CommentTimeOct 10th 2009 edited
     
    oh I understand mark ups and everything, it just sucks. haha.

    and regardless of the price i paid, I'm still very happy with the crankset is what I'm trying to get accross.
 


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