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- CommentAuthortdubs
- CommentTimeAug 12th 2009 edited
been on here a couple of months. just observing mostly and learning as much as i can. i know new threads are not popular with some of you but i have to ask....
ive been riding a buddies extra fixie conversion and just bought my first bike ('08 bianchi pista with some decent upgrades) off of eBay. the one thing i can't seem to find out, and if i'm being an idiot, feel free to tell me... is there a difference between road wheels and track wheels? i'm speaking of rims only here. i understand the non-machined rims are specific for not running a brake and are obviously for track use, but what about others. i've been leaning toward a set of mavics or DT swiss, but don't want to end up with the wrong type of wheel. or is a track wheel based more on the hub?
thanks for any input... i've really enjoyed this place -
- CommentAuthorthe rabbi
- CommentTimeAug 12th 2009
all based on hub. you can use any rim. -
- CommentAuthorAaron C
- CommentTimeAug 12th 2009
yeah all on the hub. its really nice to see some one who asked a noobish question in a totally cool (un-noobish) way.
+1 on asking like a sentient human being. -
- CommentAuthorjam guy
- CommentTimeAug 12th 2009
tdubs! Do not be afraid to ask questions because you actually are trying to learn! When the attitude start then some of us get pissy.
You have to remember that a bike with track ends are usually spaced 120. Sometimes 110. Everyone has their own theories on rims. I am a sucker for Mavic Open pros. Also, your weight has a bit to do on your selection. The more specific you are with your questions the better the answers from all of us will be.
Selah! -
- CommentAuthorcarbon fiber15
- CommentTimeAug 12th 2009
we need more noobs like you. and no, there is not much of a difference. you can use use any rim you want. -
- CommentAuthortdubs
- CommentTimeAug 12th 2009
cool... thanks for the help. and thanks for the kind words. since you are offering, one more quick question. the bike i bought has 175mm crank arms. i know the Pista has more traditional track geometry (therefore a higher BB) but are those still too long? i've had a couple pedal strikes on that conversion ive been riding and would love to avoid those as much as possbile. terrifying at any speed. and i don't want to go too short, 'cause well, it seems i would lose efficiency throughout the spin... and battling these hills in seattle has been hard enough.
thanks again -
- CommentAuthorAaron C
- CommentTimeAug 12th 2009
you'll be fine. they are probably more crank than you need unless you are riding a large frame.
you'll get over the pedal overlap. -
- CommentAuthorcarbon fiber15
- CommentTimeAug 12th 2009 edited
you would probably be better off using 165 to 170. and to compensate for the loss of efficiency you could lower your amount of teeth on the front gear. what size chainring does it have(the front gear)? -
- CommentAuthorcyclecrazyjames
- CommentTimeAug 12th 2009
Also, wouldnt you want to ride 165 or 170 for the street, to make up for the length for turns so you dont catch the ground? Just my personal experience and from what I have read and heard? -
- CommentAuthorcarbon fiber15
- CommentTimeAug 12th 2009
thats what i was thinking. but you would be fine for now just be carful to not lean to far to the side when you ride -
- CommentAuthortdubs
- CommentTimeAug 12th 2009
the chainring is already a 44... i was actually thinking of going a bit bigger. im stoked to try various combinations of gear ratios... totally pumped on this thing. im not thrilled with the crankset anyway (Bontrager GXP race) mostly based on some reviews i've read, and was planning to replace them. kinda figured 170 would be my choice as it seems to be a popular length. my bike is 57cm and i just kinda guessed 165 would be too small.
once again, this place has been awesome and will continue with my daily dosage of velospace. and lets be honest, usually several doses. -
- CommentAuthorcarbon fiber15
- CommentTimeAug 12th 2009
170 would be good and a 46-48 tooth would be a good match depending on how flat your city is -
- CommentAuthorLyKqiD
- CommentTimeAug 12th 2009
I like how some users feel the need to explain why they would ask the question (in fear of a lashing) before even asking us. I think the environment around this forum is a little tense for some.
and... 165 being too small on a 57cm, sound like a better fit then 170... Then again dialing out toe overlap can be done with pedals or cages. -
- CommentAuthorthe rabbi
- CommentTimeAug 12th 2009
170 is a great choice. great leverage advantage over 165. -
- CommentAuthorglider
- CommentTimeAug 12th 2009
+1 on 170 -
- CommentAuthoriron jaiden
- CommentTimeAug 12th 2009
Yeah 170 is an all around solid choice for pretty much any modern "track style" frameset. I ride with 165s but only because a) had em laying around and b) with my 60cm frame I actually avoid toe overlap with the 5mm shorter crank arms. For power efficiency 170s will do you just fine.
Like others have said in terms of rims you're pretty much dead on. Non-machined braking surfaces are track specific but otherwise any 700c rim will be just fine laced to a track hub. The Mavic Open Pros are tough to beat in terms of strength vs. weight and should pretty much last forever. Velocity Deep Vs are also obviously fairly popular on track bikes being ridden on the streets and a lot of the popularity has to do with how they look but they are a truly quality rim and can handle most of what the streets can throw at 'em.
And yeah, you got the right idea about asking questions so feel free to ask as many as you like. You'll notice certain commonalities about the new threads that get torn apart here and yours does not share in those at all. -
- CommentAuthorgelpicorp
- CommentTimeAug 13th 2009 edited
oops edit: sorry for the edit post, but i didn't want to be redundant ... i found an answer to my question about length (and girth) in a subsequent post further down the thread list. good dual topic thread. cheers! -
- CommentAuthorJoshua A.C. Newman
- CommentTimeAug 14th 2009
The leverage of a crank arm isn't much of a factor since you can change the gearing. It determines if your pedals will strike, if you'll get toeverlap, how much your legs rise and fall, and the optimum position for your saddle, though.
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